Things Have Changed

Part One: {Bits and Pieces} 2004 - 2010

Things have changed. After recently returning from a trip home to San Diego and then to my other, slightly less permanent home in New York, I realised that indeed, things have changed quite a bit. And not just in those ways where change is physically visible, like noticing a new building or street sign, but more like pockets of my own memory have evolved.

It’s true. Distance really does make the heart grow fonder. I returned to a New York that hadn’t always been so kind to me, and perhaps I to it, but what I saw on this most recent return was something reminiscent of the very first time I fell in love with the city that never sleeps.

I was 16 and on a flight with my mom to scope out potential colleges to which I would apply the following year. I had already decided that I was going to love NYU. Much like other decisions I have made in my life, I knew before actually knowing or experiencing anything to help guide me. To put it lightly, I was much more black-and-white then than I am now. It was all or nothing and I loved everything about NYU while knowing absolutely nothing about it. Foolish, probably, but that decision gave me great strength and continues to remind me that sometimes, we really do just know.

Either way, knowing or not knowing, my mom and I landed in a city covered in white. It was so beautiful then. A New York dressed in a blanket of snow that was the result of a three-week storm that brought silence and stillness to a city that almost always knows no bounds. It was magical. I wanted so badly to be a part, a member, of this angelic island. And now, when I look back on it, I really think that first time was the last time that I saw New York in that gasping for air, wide-eyed, can’t get enough of this city kind of way. Because the way I saw it for the years I lived there and even now, when I return, is a tapestry of layers and layers and layers. Cities on top of cities on top of cities. Quite fitting then that New York really was a white, clean, pure, empty canvas when I first met her.

Now, because of the areas I lived in over six years and the friends I had, the guys I dated, the jobs I held and the museums, galleries, cafes and parks that made up my life for so long, I have a hard time walking more than a few blocks without remembering something of substance. Like the time some asshole asked me to break his dollar for four quarters and when I placed four quarters on the coffee table, he took my four quarters and walked away and I was too dumbfounded to realise what had just happened. I was a little naïve, but that too would change. Then there was the time my freshman year roommate stopped taking her medication for being bi-polar and manic-depressive and decided to burn cigarette holes in my clothing, and throw our collective furniture out of our 9th story window. I didn’t know that five years later, I’d come face to face with her at a co-worker’s birthday party in Brooklyn. But that too, I’ll explain.

I suppose our lives are defined by the moments we want to remember as well as the ones we hoped we could forget. After college, there was the time I landed my dream job at Sotheby’s and then the time I was laid off three days before my 23rd birthday and ended the night with drinking too much, passing out on the Q train and waking up all alone in Coney Island. See, it was a true story that happened to a real girl before we all saw it happen on the season finale of HBO’s GIRLS last year. If you have no idea what I’m talking about, Youtube it.

In between the big moments, like when I never thought I’d ever interview for a job at a grocery store called Trader Joes, I tried my best to live my life and live it well. My dad, ever a man with mantras, likes to say that if you want to get something done, give it to a busy person. So, I kept busy. For my last two years in New York, I worked full time for Trader Joe’s, while I assisted the manager of an artist’s studio and did a fair amount of Upper West Side nannying. When I look back, I don’t ever really remember taking the time to decide whether I should stay or leave New York. I wanted to stay, no matter what, so I did.

At that point, in the beginning of the winter of 2008, most friends I knew had either lost their jobs, or were about to lose their jobs and there seemed to be two choices—stay and make it work or leave and (most likely) go home. I didn’t want to go home. I wasn’t ready. At least not then. I didn’t want my time in New York to be something I could talk about as if I’d just checked it off some list of cool places to live in the world. I wanted it to be more than a bullet point, which meant giving it everything I had, and at the time, that meant dealing with and embracing change, however inconvenient it may have been.

So I traded in my stilettos and pinstriped trousers for a pair of ripped jeans, converse and a pocketknife and spent the first four months of my new job working shifts from 4 am till noon or 6 pm till 2 am. I saw a New York that I had never seen before. When I was really motivated, I’d go running with all the other psychos at the crack of dawn and I’d love watching the whole city wake up. My vocabulary changed from talking about art, sales, and auction results to asking why milk sweats and providing a customer with a satisfactory answer to why the unsalted crunchy peanut butter didn’t arrive as scheduled. Oh, the joys.

I’m sure I was just so happy to have a job and a fun one to boot, that I let go of my pride pretty quickly and told myself that sometimes, we have to do what we have to do so that eventually, we can do what we want to do. I survived those first few months of living a completely different life by laughing about what went down at work that day. Like the time a customer refused to get in the back of a fairly long line towards the checkout and another customer, who was not at all in harm’s way, threw her basket down in a furry which held 12 dozen boxes of eggs and simply walked away. I was shocked as I stared down the remnants of 144 broken eggs and then I grabbed a bucket and a mop to clean it all up. We really did have some total nut jobs enter that store.

There was the dude who was forever buying and then returning half eaten boxes of cherry tomatoes. I have no idea, I really don’t. And the mom who refused to let her daughter eat any piece of chocolate that had less than 70% cacao. I had customers who had memorised the entire schedule of when our trucks were meant to arrive and then asked, in only the way a born and bred New Yorker can, where the goddamn truck was. There were customers who made me love my job as much as those who made me hate it. And there was one man, who was deaf and blind, that would let me sign his fingers so we could find the same seven items he bought every week and on his way out of the store, he’d smile and mouth ‘Thank you, Claudia’. He was a gem and a half. For 14 months, I people-watched while I worked and when it came to leave a store that took me in and made me a part of its family, I knew I’d never forget the day a nice girl from California told me to apply for a job.

Life had thrown me for a few loops. My parents kept telling me that if losing my job at 23 with no one to be responsible for except myself was the worst thing to happen to me, I should consider myself pretty lucky. But I didn’t feel lucky at all. I spent my days carrying cartons of milk and boxes of bananas to living my nights in some sort of fucked up diluted version of reality where I hit the bars hard and wondered what the hell I was going to do with my life. Sure, I enjoyed a schedule that fit in time for yoga and the gym and endless mornings of free coffees and standing breakfast dates but for a girl who went to college at 18 knowing exactly what she wanted, I was now 23 and had no clue. I guess like anything worth doing, I had to learn to give into the process. I’ve always had a hard time with ‘the process.’ So often, I wish I could just fast track my life to where I feel better and I’ve learned my lessons and I’ll do it better next time. But the reality is that there is no way out of the process; at least not a way out where the end result isn’t something amazing and always something that can never be predicted or better yet, planned.  

This life in limbo brought out each insecurity I had to the surface. I remember the day I was helping a lovely woman check out her groceries when she told me that at least her daughter would never have to work at a grocery store because she had, what turned out to be, the same degree that I held from the same university. I stood there a bit shocked, though worse things had been said to me, and didn’t really respond except to say that I wished her daughter luck and told myself to remember that we are never too good for any job.

It must have been soon after that where I decided to embrace my largely less idealised version of life in New York after the glory days of college. And it was that same summer of 2009 where my horror of a roommate came back for one finale of a goodbye. Turned out, while I thought she’d sent herself home for a much needed drug and therapy combo, she’d stayed in the city and eventually moved in with her best friend who I had coincidentally befriended as another employee of TJ’s. Small fucking world.

And there you have it. I showed up to a party for who I thought was a friend from work, only to find out that it gave her best friend/my former roommate, let’s call her J, a moment to let out everything she had always wanted to tell me. Poor sod. I stood there shaking from nervousness while J ripped into me and when she was done, I walked away and told her not to worry because I’d never come back. She was so angry. She felt that I’d messed up her college experience, her life, her…everything. And what’s worse is that she had held onto that anger for so long and for that reason alone, all I felt walking away that night was compassion with a side of pity. I realised that things really do come full circle, eventually. We can’t rush the process. However frustrating it is, we have to give time, time to work.

We often speak of the importance of time. When things inevitably don’t go our way, what do our friends tell us?

‘Don’t worry, give it time. Everything will be alright.’

But rarely, I find, do we acknowledge that time itself needs time to work. We have to learn that while time will naturally pass, as will emotion and memory, there is no prescribed order or method for how long we must wait for time to do its thing and heal our pain.

After a fast and furious romantic fling with my store manager and debating leaving a city I had learned to call home, I applied for a fellowship that changed everything.

I loved my years at NYU and as a result, I remained close with my professors who I considered both mentors and friends. They’re the same people who are blessed with an uncanny ability to tell you that your work is shit but it’s ok because you’ll get it right one day. They took me out for dinners and coffees and made college feel exactly how it should feel: Like a place where anything is possible and you can be whoever you want as long as you own it, defend it, and stand by it. I learned what it was to appreciate this thing called photography and even though I had nightmares fearing dreaded slide exams, I know that I loved explaining the similarities and differences between two pictures. It was about looking again and again and again. They asked us to experiment, take chances, deal with failure and keep going. And now, nine years after the beginning of that experience, I work as a Picture Editor for Getty Images where all those words of wisdom come creeping back into my memory, as if I’m still sitting in class trying to figure out what my place in all of this is.

And so, when I was without a job in the arts, hanging out in limbo, these same professors did their best to get me up and running again. I was advised to apply for a fellowship at the Studio Museum in Harlem. It had everything. It was one year to work alongside the Chief Curator with a small team who would organise exhibitions. At the time, I convinced myself that it was my ticket out of nowhere land, but in the end, after making it to a short list of three, I flew back to San Diego for a visit and told my parents that I didn’t get the fellowship, I was going to move back home, apply to Graduate School and travel the world. And for someone who was so lost with no idea of what to do, I finally had a plan. And even though I advocate a life of travel, risk and adventure, underneath it all, I really love a good plan and a nice list.

Some of my friends at the time asked me how I could ever leave New York. To them, there really wasn’t anything else except this place where we had lived during the most formative years of our lives. Never mind leaving New York, most of them saw it unfit to go above 14th street. But I had left, once before, to travel on what became a life-altering journey to India and I wanted more. I’m a firm believer that you either love to travel or you don’t. (I know, there’s that black and white in me again.) But really, either you crave it like it’s the best burger you’ve ever had and you want it all the time or you don’t. And if you don’t, you will enjoy the idea of traveling, the thought of going somewhere completely new and different but you might never actually take the jump.

When I returned from India the first time, the change I felt within me was so physically visible that my professors advised me to take a writing class and finally write down everything I was feeling on paper. They are the reason I’m still writing today. The very act of putting words on a page became synonymous to taking a deep breath and exhaling one of those big lion breaths that yogis often speak about. Writing quite simply became another layer to my work, and another way to tell a story. And when I put those words on a page, I was able to gain perspective and understanding on things that had taken a rather large toll on my life. Like being rushed to the hospital in New Delhi just minutes after landing or contracting Typhoid in India’s holiest city or seeing the Taj Mahal with my mom in the middle of May with almost no one else in sight. These are the moments I remember now and they were the same ones that convinced me to leave New York in June of 2010.

After throwing two epic goodbye parties, because for some reason we didn’t finish all the alcohol the first time around, I packed up my life of six years into box after box. I made what seemed like never ending trips to FedEx, and spent my last few days doing all of my favourite things. I ate cookies from Levain bakery, took strolls on the Highline, read my book in the sculpture gardens of the Met and the MoMA and drank coffee at MUD. These activities may seem somewhat mundane but they were the places I went to for solace and some peace and quiet in such a noisy city.

For the year and a half before I left, I had an almost always-standing breakfast date with Emersbean. Around town she is known affectionately as the Godfather—truth—because chances are, she’s fixed up most of the East Village residents with super-cool-cheap-ish-housing. Upon graduating from NYU, I was referred to her company where she set me up with a great place but it took another nine months or so, when my bathroom ceiling collapsed (so maybe not such a great place?), for us to actually meet up again. And then, well, we kept meeting up.

We liked to meet on Thursdays, at 10:30 at MUD and I’m pretty sure we usually ordered the same things, week after week. It was our joint, though some weeks we’d agree to change it up, but inevitably we’d go back to MUD because it just worked.

E likes to joke that she is like Europe and I’m like America because she believes most people are guilty until proven innocent and I am the other way around. It’s true. She’s a cynic. And while for so long she had me down as a hopeless romantic who believed that people were inherently good, I know she knows that has changed too. And not to say I have covered my heart with bars of steel, but her words over the years serve as simple reminders to take a step back, ‘slow my roll’ and remember that when people disappoint us, it’s ok and life goes on. If anything, I hope that we allow each other to see things differently while still holding on to who we are inside.

E was the last person I saw before I left New York and as I recall, she wouldn’t even say ‘goodbye’ because she said it was more like I was taking a leave of absence than leaving for good. The jury is still out on that one.

And then I went home. I moved into a new room in a new house because my parents had recently sold the one I had mostly grown up in. This time, everything had changed. Absolutely everything. We lived in a new neighborhood, with new types of people and I really had no idea what I was doing. The plan was to apply for Graduate School and, while I did follow through on that one, everything else seemed a bit fuzzy. As someone who is terrified of becoming complacent, I feared that I might have left one of the greatest cities in the world and would become stuck in a place that looks like fantasyland. I immediately missed everything about New York.

In the office of the Student Travel Association in Pacific Beach, there’s a sign that reads ‘Home is not where you’re from but where they understand you.’ I read it the day I walked into the office in August of that same summer to start planning my big adventure, and I’ve never forgotten it. I suppose the words are fitting to my life and, thinking back to those months at home, I don’t think I felt at home at all. Even when I met another friend of great substance, PMason, I still felt like I was between things. Not really here and not really there. I clung to P because she too had spent time in New York, four years more than me in fact. But, for all the times I had decided to shake things up, I just wasn’t ready to accept the physical change I had voluntarily decided to make.

But P and I sorted through it together. She knew what I felt because she felt it too and, as the story goes, we learned to see a place where we had both grown up in a new way. Neither P nor I had spent a significant amount of time at home in the years we lived in New York and now was our chance to give our new home what we had given our old one: a chance to view it as a home. And that, in the end, was how my new-old home really began to feel like a place where I was understood. It didn’t happen overnight. These things never do. But sometimes things change so subtlety that we don’t even notice and that’s exactly what happened.

As the weeks passed, and my friendship with P grew deeper, I realised that I had to leave New York to really see what had changed within me. In a most fitting way, I had to come home to put it all together. I did miss the hustle and bustle of a big city, but my new-old home was so beautiful that it almost took care of everything else it lacked. That’s the thing I realised about New York once I left…it is so many things, but it isn’t beautiful. It’s rough and exciting and dominant and dirty and loud and soft and eerie and epic, but it’s not beautiful. It’s not beautiful in that serene, lovely, fantasyland type of way and that summer, when I was home, I just wanted to feel calm and at ease in ways I never could while living in New York.

Part Two: {In Retrospect} September 2011 – January 2014

When I eventually moved to London in September 2011, I wrote an email to a friend expressing my concern that I felt my luck had run out. This friend, soon to become my first real pen pal since the fourth grade, has been something reminiscent of the older sister I never had more than anything else. The truth is we never really met…not physically speaking, at least. She, Xxn, got a ho ld of my travel letters from my eldest brother whilst I was traveling around the world and contacted me to tell me her thoughts and how much she appreciated and loved reading what I had to say. I remember feeling overwhelmingly flattered and I guess the rest is history. We continue to write to one another, to see each other when I visit New York and perhaps just to know that no matter the distance, we would always be available to share our thoughts with each other.

In this letter, just one of many to follow, I told Xxn that I worried about doing well in school and in life in London. After all, I’d been out of school for quite a few years and basically wasn’t completely convinced that I had what it took to succeed. After traveling around the world and being accepted into multiple programs, I had this awful writhing fear that everything was just going to fall apart. That maybe my life was too good to be true.

I laid it all bare and confessed that I felt like I’d always gotten everything I ever wanted. Because…well, I had. I was privileged with a seemingly sublime upbringing where my parents valued education above and beyond everything else, sending me to schools that I hope I will be fortunate enough to send my own children to one day. These schools promoted individuality, independence and an appreciation for knowledge. It’s a cliché but it’s the truth. Knowledge is power. And of course, these are the schools where I fell in love with painting, ceramics, photography and history. Good teachers are a blessing, man. They’re like really well dressed men or that couple who are as equally whacky as they are sane. They are a gift from society because they make our lives better and more interesting and for that, I will always be grateful. It’s the same reason why I love talking to people. The whole thing is a surprise and I guess the way I see it is that I’ll most likely be better off for having met them or at the very least, knowing what I don’t like in other people. Process of elimination. God bless it.

Anyways, back to things falling apart. After my adolescence growing up on the beach, I was accepted into my dream University, followed by my dream job, my dream city and what if I’d reached the end of the line. In response, xxn told me about her fears in an all too familiar story. That people around her just assumed she’d slapped on some gorgeous red lipstick , thrown on a hot pink blazer and somehow been accepted to and then graduated from Law school. What she ended up reminding me was that we forget how hard we worked for the great things in our lives. We so easily forget all the nights without sleep, all the edits and revisions and all the insecurities that come with having to wait for someone else to tell you that you are good enough to proceed to the next level. Yes, xxn agreed that of course luck has a little bit to do with it…right place, right time type of thing. But our achievements are due to the effort we made and the sacrifices we made and the choices we ran towards because of that totally guttural nod telling us to persevere. Xxn was right.

I wrote my applications for Graduate School the same way I’d written my applications for Undergraduate School. And to that end, the way I’ve done anything that’s been worth doing. I made list after list after list, slowly crossing things off and then replacing them with other things that needed doing. Those applications were an exercise in patience and beyond. They were a lesson in letting go of lines I had written that I’d become emotionally attached to but just didn’t work anymore. The question with any sort of Post-graduate education is a test of how badly you really want it. And—of course I only see this now—it was a sneak peek of what was to come for the next two years.

London was a bitch. It really was. Even now, when I tell people how much I miss it and how badly I want to visit, I can tell that even as they nod in complacency, what they’re really thinking is, “You do? You miss it? What…exactly…do you miss?” And for the most part, the counter argument is a good one. I spent a solid portion of my first year making fun of all things English and found it quite difficult to get passed the reserved, traditional, quietness that was so different to everything I had felt about New York. Foolishly, I thought I was going from one metropolitan city to another. But, no. It was more like I moved to a place where the letters were all the same but the words didn’t make sense and they definitely didn’t sound right and most often it felt like I wasn’t really here or there. Limbo.

I wanted to feel at home (a recurring theme, I know). I wanted to make my flat completely mine and I wanted to make friends that would become my family. What I learned—in retrospect—is that I have very little patience for things to come together. While I am indeed an advocate of the idea of patience, it took a year in London and a few months of traveling to really start to settle in a bit. It took a while to realize that as much as I loved being at school and being part of an academic environment, my Graduate school experience would never touch sides with my experience at NYU. Everything about Graduate school was different—it wasn’t as much about growth as it was about finesse. It wasn’t about hand holding as much as it was about throwing students into the very deep end of a freezing ocean (I wish I was kidding) and seeing how well they could swim.

I definitely felt like I was drowning during that first year. Michelle, a born and bred American who had gone to NYU also and was at Goldsmiths for her second doctorate (I love her but she is an overachiever) provided some very comfortable floaties when my arms and legs grew tired from trying to tread water. She broke down a system that felt so foreign and helped instil a confidence that I’d lost somewhere along the way. She showed me the ropes, she edited my work, and she became an academic advisor, a tutor, a friend and then a confidant. In a world that at times seemed so very prim and proper, she seemed just like another friend from home and what a gift she was.

We spent my second year in London discovering the city together. We brought our addiction of New York Sunday brunch to London and succeeded in finding something pretty close to something so traditionally New York. We discussed our research, we geeked out on things we’d read in science magazines and we made London our own. And that’s when it happened…that’s when my opinion of London changed and everything kind of got pretty good. I had a nice circle of friends at school and I had accepted the fact that they would most likely never become anything close to the friends I had in New York and I was OK with that. Maybe one or two would or maybe not. But the adage is true – friends are for reasons, seasons or lifetimes.

Friends at school were great for coffee dates and library buddies and trips to museums and galleries and venting sessions. But I knew I wanted something a bit more close to home and so, in my second year, I got my Jew on and realized how much I’d missed it. I grew up going to Shul and having Shabbat dinners and I wanted it all back. I started walking to Shul on Saturdays because it was actually faster than taking the bus – go figure – and I helped to plan a few events through the local Shul youth group. It was fantastic. Sure, they were London Jews and the hat situation at Shul was kind of out of control (I’m talking Doctor Seuss style here) but they offered a sense of community that I hadn’t really found up until then.

At the same time as all of this was going on, my cousin Dave and I developed a friendship that stuck like crazy glue. For a writer who is rarely short of things to say, I’m not sure how to go about this one. He’s special. Sure, he’s family – the grandson of my granny’s sister – but as time went on, it felt less like obligatory love and more like…non-obligatory love (Dave, don’t argue here). It helped that we enjoy doing the same things, find similar things hilarious and are an ear to each other for all of life’s annoyingly little first world problems. He helped me buy my bike the day after I moved to London and came running with the speed of a gazelle the night I called – frantic – that I’d been mugged. It sucked to tell him that I was leaving London when things had just gotten so good. Come to think of it, he didn’t want to say ‘goodbye’ either. It is such a win that he’s family and awesome and even though I wish I saw him more, I feel so blessed that we got two years together.

I like moving quickly. And when I want something, safe to say, I want it yesterday. I like walking quickly and can become rather competitive on the sidewalks, trying to see if I can indeed pass people who are much farther ahead of me. What can I say, simple things amuse me (like personal speed walking competitions against myself). And this obsession for speed enters every part of my life. I have almost no patience for Email replies that reach my inbox after my ‘3 day rule’—god forbid—after I’ve sent a message. And don’t even get me started on late text messages. Blame my father for this one, guys. He’s wonderful, but he’s particular and, like my father, we are one and the same when it comes to communication. We are diligent, fast and big believers that at the core, communication is everything. I have a constant urge to be there and available. But the flipside is that when I didn’t hear back from people in my specified timeline—which of course they were not privy to—I had to learn to s-l-o-w-d-o-w-n and reevaluate my approach to life. But it was more than that. I was constantly attaching myself to people for absolute fear of what would happen if I let go.

Call it a lack of trust in myself or just overall insecurity but it wasn’t long before I realised that if I kept grabbing and gnawing at people the way I had been, I would ruin any sort of budding relationship with friends both past and present. I love being around people and almost always feel the more the better. But I was so set on making sure that my friendships survived while I kept moving around the world that when they inevitably hit a speed bump, I didn’t know what to do with myself. I craved constant confirmation from everyone around me that everything was OK and would always be OK. And so, when things started to change so quickly and so subtly, I just couldn’t keep up.

In another conversation with xxn, she told me about a book that ended up changing the entire way I saw everything around and within me. Like a bible for first world problems, this text outlined how and why we grab and gnaw and attach to almost anything-be more specific without even knowing it. The Tibetan Book of Living and Dying poignantly discusses the common problems that accompany our fast paced world: Wanting to control, to know, to bypass the process…it is a book dedicated to helping us save us from ourselves.

Timing really is everything, and this book arrived perfectly on time. I enjoy asking questions and for me, it wasn’t enough to just accept the fact that people are busy and life happens. I wanted to get to the root of the issue. I wanted to release myself from all prior expectations of people.

Easier said than done, obviously. Letting go of expectations…understanding that people constantly come in and out of our lives as long we let them…these are life pursuits. But they are good pursuits. They are life lessons that remind us not to grab and gnaw at the things we want because as all self-fulfilling prophecies explain, the more we want the more we grab and then when we inevitably lose what we were holding onto so tightly, all we have left are the scars of our attachment. Sometimes, we just need to do what xxn’s Asian yoga teacher says and ‘leeeeewaaaax’.

At a time when I was in Master’s Dissertation Denial, this text opened up a world of awareness to try and better understand the pressure I was placing on myself to keep everything around me at equilibrium. And when I came face to face with the blinding lack of control I had, I had no choice but to accept things for what they were at that moment and keep going. I wrote lists of what I was thankful for, I kept two or three simple goals in mind and when Emails arrived later than expected or text messages went unanswered, I tried my best to remember xxn and the book that helped me walk the talk.

I met Jlove a few months before I left New York. I remember thinking she must be pretty legit because she was wearing Keds shoes way before the 80’s circled back into fashion with white socks folded over twice. Respect. And she’s just awesome. We share a mutual affection for all things nerdy, classic, vintage and well…certifiably Grandma. And when it came to what seemed like the never ending dark and grey months of February and March and well, parts of April and May (and sometimes June), J was there to talk about what to do when the stuff we tell ourselves to keep going kind of melts away and we’re left quaking in the gaze of reality and it’s all horribly unnerving. What would I do with my degree…what did I really want to do…where did I want to live, etc. etc.

I had started working for Getty Images as an intern at the beginning of my second year in London. I loved it. I loved every single minute of it. On my second day at work, I confessed to my boss that I had found my dream job. He looked at me sweetly and in a very English tone said, “It’s only your second day, love.” That was true, it was my second day. But that feeling never subsided and even now, when I have a different job at a different company, I still think of those Getty days.

I worked in the Archive, surrounded by pictures and film and it was perfect. I love history and my job at Getty let me play the role of romantic historian with other researchers and editors and retouchers who shared my passion for this rare and unique thing. The Archive was a funny place full of quirky people – most of who had worked there for at least 20 years. Sometimes on my lunch break, I’d find old albums of LIFE magazines or I’d sit and look at some of the very first pictures taken of the Queen and Princess Margaret. It sounds so silly now as I type it out but that place is special and I feel very privileged to have had a job that made me feel like I was contributing to archiving a moment. What’s more is that it opened up exactly what I wanted to do.

Sure, I enjoyed my experience in school but the theory actually drove me kind of nuts. It so happened that when I was up in theory la la land, I ended up feeling pretty detached from the ground beneath my feet. There was so much speculation and even though it was fun and exciting at times to try and decipher and relate to someone else’s thoughts, I missed being actively involved in the process of physically making something. I suppose that the more theory I read, the more critical I became of what I saw and in the end, I missed being able to just look at something and appreciate it for what it was, not what it wasn’t. Grad school was fantastic in the way it helped to strengthen my opinions and arguments but it also stripped away a bit of the idealistic, romantic opinion I had always had towards the value of art. For all the papers I’d ever written and all the tutorials I had ever lead, there was a part of me that just wanted to see something beautiful, appreciate the fact that someone else made it and then walk away knowing that I’d just seen something really special. The paradox of Grad school is that it exacerbated my natural inclination to overthink and analyse everything, which was fantastic for Academia but absolutely terrible for most other parts of my life.

Fortunately, at the same time I was in Grad school, I started an internship at Getty Images as a Picture Editor. I loved going to work every day. This must not be understated. I absolutely loved going to work. It was a privilege. I worked at the Hulton Archive which is where a large portion of the 90 million images that Getty Images owns are stored. They exist on slides, film, glass, paper, in albums, books, magazines and oversized flat drawers. Images are everywhere, catalogued like you are in a library full of books, but there are still boxes that have never been touched, cases that have not yet been looked through. There are surprises everywhere. I used to spend my lunch going through old LIFE Magazines or gently thumbing through prints from WWII. The history lover in me loved the closeness I had to such a plethora of documentation on so many different subjects. I was asked to edit a collection of travel photography from an amateur photographer who traveled the world over the course of 60 years. Of course I related to this woman, someone who I had never met and would never meet. We’d traveled to many of the same places, her and I. We’d taken similar photos or stood in similar places. That’s when you really think cities on top of cities on top of cities. I edited her work and then I cleaned up slides that were decades old, scanned them, retouched them and put them up for sale on Getty’s site. Now, as I write this sitting in my apartment in New York, I am confident that even if I never work for Getty again, I will always have the time I spent with a wonderful collection of images. Just her work and me. And when my eyes got sore or I needed a cuppa tea, I went upstairs at the Archive to say hello to the best boss I have ever had, Matthew Butson.

Like everyone at the Archive, Matt and I shared a deep passion and dare I say – an emotional connection – to the work we studied and edited every day. When people ask me what it was like to work there, I say it was so unique to be able to go to work every day with people who share the same rare passions as you do. Matt had that, and then some. He has worked for Getty for almost ever and even though so many days can be mundane and feel like nothing special at all, there is always one picture that keeps you coming back for more. Matt was a great boss but beyond that, he remains a mentor, a friend and a confidant. Matt had a saying he’d pull out if I were having a bad day or worrying about something I could not control.

“It’s never as bad as you think it’s going to be,” he’d tell me with a little smile lighting up across his face. To that I say, you’re right. Life is pretty damn good, Matt. Don’t you think?

I left London with a BANG. It had to be done this way. I saved up some pounds and planned one of my most epic adventures yet. This is a first world problem if there ever was one but there aren’t too many places in and around Europe that my brother Jonathan and I have not visited. He had done some rather insane traveling himself back when he was studying abroad in London in 2005 and so in the end, we had to decide between Iceland and Finland. The answer, of course, is that we didn’t think Finland had a blue lagoon so Iceland it was!

ICELAND IS INSANE IN THE MEMBRANE. I honestly have no idea how else to put it. It hasn’t even been a year since I saw those jaw dropping landscapes but when I think about it and look at pictures I just can’t believe it actually happened. I was there? We were there? Wait. What? It makes me think of the time I was with B and we were riding bikes along the river in Paris and shouting back and forth to each other saying WHAT IS OUR LIFE? Yeah, it was kinda like that. Iceland is everything in one day. Rainstorms, sunshine, rainbows, double rainbows, one a half rainbows, every kind of rainbow ever, thunderstorms, light drizzle, medium drizzle, drizzle and sunshine, volcanoes, geysers, waterfalls which are more like everything ever falling down at once with a sound so loud you can hear it from miles away before your eyes even catch a glimpse. It was nature at her absolute finest. There was nothing she couldn’t do, to the point at which I used to enjoy looking up at the sky and shouting ‘OH YEAH? IS THIS THE BEST YOU CAN DO? HUH? IS THIS ALL YOU GOT?!’

Obviously, it wasn’t all she got. She had lagoons and molten lava and ice and sheep and ponies – special Icelandic Ponies – and more sheep and cliffs and mini waterfalls everywhere and very few people – almost no people – and driving for hours, and whales and blowholes and FISH – basically the best fish ever – and more whales and men who looked a lot like Vikings. Iceland was a trip, man.

I returned to London to a guy I was seeing at the time and we had a blast during those last few days. We did some of my most favourite things and even though I wasn’t really sure what would become of me or him or us, I knew that leaving London and going home was a good idea. It wasn’t even about New York then. The truth is that I wasn’t so sure that leaving London was what I wanted but I knew it was a good idea. It seemed sound and whenever I worried that I was making a huge mistake, my dad would gently remind me that nothing is forever, that I could always come back. So I left. I had a goodbye party at a pub just down the street from my box of a flat and when I landed in San Diego, dazed and confused, I felt my mom standing behind me in baggage claim, turned around to hug her and then proceeded to cry oceanic-sized tears all the way home.

I was kind of a mess. It felt like I had just started to get things on track only to leave and have to start all over. But the change was good. I needed to be home and it felt like my family needed me home, too. Amidst the worries about what to do next and where to live and what job would I have, I knew in the back of my head that this would probably be the last time I’d stay at home for a while. And the reality is that when something is rare, it is beautiful and you should bask in it. So I did. At least I tried to. I helped my mom and I took drives with my dad (one of my favourite things). I napped in my parent’s bed and fell asleep watching the television when they went out on a Saturday night. It felt like I had regressed to being a teenager but without the all the attitude – well, maybe not all of it. Wink.

We went on walks and bought frozen yogurt and went to Whole Foods to comment on the aesthetic they seem to create so effortlessly. We hung out at home and read the papers – oogling over Tyler Brûlé latest piece – and argued here and there because that is what families do. We dealt with each other and learned from each other and laughed and cried and joked together. When figurative shit hit the figurative fan with the guy I had been seeing in London, my mom was physically present to help guide me out of the past and into a more present present tense. What a gift. No offense to all the moms out there but mine really is the best. She is the best because she is mine and I get to call her mom. She will always be my mother and that is perfection.

When I really think about it, I know the best part of her is that she lets me fall. She knows that if I fall, I’ll learn how to get up on my own. She trusts me and even though we battle it out over what to say to each other and how to say it, I know that she believes in me and that she tries her best to help me find my way back to me whenever I feel like I’ve gotten a little lost.

Home had its ups and downs. While I was busy freelancing and traveling to New York for work and play, things continued to change even when I didn’t want them to. Change is a constant, indeed. My friendship with P disintegrated and in time, my friendship with E would change as well. My dad wasn’t kidding when he said that nothing is forever. Impermanence, however scary, reminds us to take things for what they are when we have them and appreciate them as much as we can. I will say that as upset and offended as I was when P confronted me, it was the first time that I was able to mentally acknowledge that this might be something I simply cannot fix. I had to let go. It wasn’t even about not wanting to fight for someone or something but more about realizing that some friendships don’t last forever – this, of course, making the ones that do even more spectacular. Of course it sucks when I think about it from time to time. Losing anything sucks. But how you deal with that, how you move on and how you chose to spend your time, that’s what it’s all about it.

I know I am my father’s daughter. I know I can rag on him about why I deal with communication the somewhat incessant, overactive way I do, but the longer I stayed at home, the more I saw my dad in me. Not in everything, not in every way, but he is there. He’s there in the way I approach people, in the way I absolutely love to get a rise out of someone and put a smile on a face, any face. He’s there when I ask my friends if they’re doing OK and when I keep asking just to be sure, to be sure. He’s there when I find myself feeling overly positive, that life really is a wonderful blessing and that everything will always be amazing. He’s there in my desire to do, to make, to get shit done. Perhaps above it all, he’s there to remind me to take risks because, well…you just never know.

So one night I did. I had grown pretty frustrated with applying for jobs in New York without actually being IN New York and I suppose as the adage goes, the more I couldn’t get it, the more I wanted it…oh, so badly I wanted to be back in New York. It’s funny how time changes things. I left London and I was convinced I’d made a mistake and then I went to visit New York a few months later, and I was so sure that I was ready to give it another shot. Maybe the lesson there is that we can live in so many different places, for so many different reasons, but at the end of the day, I wanted to come home to New York. I wanted to be back in the buzz, the light, the sound, the smell of it all. I knew it might not be forever, but it seemed good for right now and I wanted to do what was best for me for right now, for this moment.

On a Thursday night in the middle of January, I booked a one-way ticket to New York. I’m so happy I took the risk. I’m so happy I came back. I spent the first few weeks running around for introductions, meetings and interviews – living out of a suitcase, hopping from one couch to another – but eventually, I settled down. It was a bit turbulent during those first few weeks back in one of the coldest winters on record. But for lack of a better phrase, I felt incredibly productive. And there isn’t much I disdain more than feeling unproductive. It took a while, but as the days and weeks and months went by, my life has slowly started to come together, with a few good old fashioned life curveballs, obviously. Even as I write this, things are changing, always changing. But I know I enjoy it. I like a bit of a bumpy ride – not in a masochistic sense but I like the comfort of feeling uncomfortable. I am so fearful of becoming complacent and having time just pass me by. So I fill my days up with work and writing and yoga and friends and mini projects. There’s always something to do, to write, to see…motivated not as much by a fear of missing out as a fear of doing nothing. B reminds me that we must also just enjoy the time we have when we don’t feel like doing anything. You know, crawling up into a ball on the couch and watching endless hours of Law and Order. Yeah, that works too. It’s a balance. That’s the goal.

Part Three: {The Recent Past} January 2014 – October 2014

It has been said that there are two constants in life: death and change. But even through two years of intense theoretical discussions re: the above…amidst papers going back and forth, I’m still not convinced that change is constant – or if it is, that it is not enough to just acknowledge change. We must become acutely aware of change. We must be open enough to let change happen all the time, all around us. If you want to get crazy, you can even think of change as the body changing constantly heartbeat after heartbeat. And so, things have changed quite a bit indeed.

I moved to London convinced that I wanted to work in museums or galleries and left two years later with the desire to do something much more process-based. I worked in an archive and fell in love with editing, looking, analysis and research. I loved making a story come alive. I arrived in a city where I wasn’t so sure I belonged but left knowing that London will forever hold a very special place in my heart – for what happened there, for the people I met, for the conversations I had and still have and for the lessons I learned.

The strange thing about change is that even when things change when we don’t want them to, when it sucks and it’s hard and we just want things to go back to ‘the way they were’ change can prove to be quite comforting. Change reminds us that nothing is forever. So, when I wasn’t sure moving away from London was the best decision, my dad’s words of wisdom kept me going.

“Nothing is forever,” he’d say.

Now, my dad is one of the most positive people I have ever known. So this line isn’t coming from a cynical mind. This line is coming from someone who has always persevered and fought for what he wants to achieve in life. If it’s not working, change it up, reboot, and figure out another way. There’s always a way. Embrace impermanence. Never give up, keep going. These little bits are all part of the same mantra. It reminds me not to get stuck, to keep moving, to always look around and be mindful of what is happening. Nothing is forever. So take it while you’ve got it. Hug it and squeeze it and take mental pictures because one day, things will change. They always do.

This is my 7th year in New York and man, some days it feels like I just arrived while others feel like I’ve been here forever. So much has changed. I used to live downtown and now I live uptown. I used to feel like the life I was living was lacking a bit in direction and now, four years after leaving this city, I look around and know that this is exactly where I’m supposed to be. I’ve come to love my routine, to love the constancy of it, instead of fearing that something constant, something routine, was boring. I wake up and I go to work at a job where I’m able to use what I know and love about photography and that really is a gift in and of itself. No, I never thought I’d be working in a photography studio and I never really pictured myself working with kids either, but all that changed when I came back to New York. After a few awesome-not awesome job situations, I found a passion for working with kids within a passion for taking pictures and making something beautiful. It’s been a year since the end of Grad school and now, instead of writing papers on theories and dissecting exhibitions, I get to spend my day laughing, making others laugh and then, of course, selling the whole narrative to Upper West Side parents. It’s not always awesome. I have rough days just like everyone else and even while I continue to contemplate my next move, I know that right now, this is a good place for me and it feels good to just be and hang out here for a while. And, you know, it’s not such a bad thing to work at a place where good listeners get prizes – wink.

After work, I practice yoga or meet friends and yes, it is routine, and there is plenty of ‘the same’ but there is also comfort in that and it’s a comfort that – for me – has always been challenging to accept. The uncomfortable has always been more attractive for me and all of a sudden, I find myself trying to navigate the routine, the normal, and the everyday.

About a month after I moved back to the city, I had a job and an apartment and I was meeting up with the friends I’d known since college for dinners and drinks. Life was good. I spent my Friday nights celebrating Shabbat at a friend’s apartment – something we’d been doing since we graduated and on Saturday mornings, I’d meet another friend for an early coffee and then we’d catch the last bits of Shul just before Kiddush when throngs of Upper West Side Jews would unite over sugar cookies and scotch. Back then it was absolutely freezing and so the rest of Saturday was spent indoors, catching up with friends who I’d forgotten how much I’d missed while I was away. The amazing thing is that I never wanted to participate in anything ‘Upper West Side’ when I used to live downtown. My mom would call and mention the idea of going to Shul and the truth is that it just didn’t fit with what I wanted back then. But, of course, it’s four years later and what I wanted has changed. I’m so glad that even now, when I have to work on Saturdays, I can still go to Shul on Friday nights and have Shabbat dinner and be with my friends who feel like family.

For all the times I was totally freaked out by the idea of settling down, I am so happy that I came back to New York. Even if it’s not forever, even if I move again or something or someone takes me away from this place, New York has changed me, it has reminded me of what I love so much, and replaced my fear of settling down with other thoughts and concerns. I know that it is October, which means that it has been a little over seven months since I last heard from E. I know that November is just around the corner, which means that in just a little while, I’ll be another year older. I know that sometimes, I feel like it took me way too long to get where I am but that I wouldn’t change any of it for anything different. I know that sometimes I wonder when I’ll have the luxury to travel again and I just think about where I’d go for fun and make lists on my phone so that I know it will come true, in time. I know that I used to joke that I’d love to save the world while wearing PRADA but the truth within that ridiculous statement is that I’ve always wanted to feel like I was helping someone else, or making someone else’s life better and now, without PRADA, I know that I am lucky enough to make kids feel beautiful, wonderful and unique. And even if it’s just one kid, that’s good too.

My mom doesn’t call me anymore to talk about going to Shul. Now, the conversations have changed. We talk about the everyday and the family. We talk about work; we talk about how important it is to just enjoy, to just take it in. We are each other’s reminders to slow down, take a walk, read a book, or just do absolutely nothing because that’s important too. It’s a constant back and forth. It’s about going one day at a time. It’s about believing that at the end of the day, it’s about accepting change, understanding perception and being down with the choices I’ve made. 

Perfectly Imperfect

September 2012

I don’t really know where to begin. At the moment, I’m sitting in an old fashioned chair—you know…four legs, no arm rests, barely any spinal support—with chipped baby blue paint, staring at the coaster beneath my cup of green tea which reads, “Wine: How Classy People Get Shitfaced.” This is my favourite coaster. I have a few with similar styles of sassiness, but this one remained on my desk while I travelled all summer. Thinking back, this coaster has been on my desk, next to my ever increasing pile of ‘notes to deal with’ for almost a year now. It has seen the bottomless pit of books, movies and music guide me through a transition that I am still dealing with.

On the late nights where the clock seemed to jump from midnight to 3 am, there was Cat Stevens and Van Morrison, with intermittent bouts of Procol Harum, Pearl Jam, The Smashing Pumpkins, Coheed and Cambria and Beyoncé. Obviously there was always Beyoncé. For the seven weeks before the end of term, where all I did was write incessantly about topics I still don’t quite understand, there was a steady rotation of films to get me through the day (and night)…When Harry Met Sally, Clueless, The Godfathers, Pretty Woman, Top Gun and Notting Hill to name but a few. And while the stack of theoretical mumbo jumbo next to my computer grew slow but steady, there was a library copy of Aidan Hartley’s The Zanzibar Chest next to my bed to bring me out of theory and back to travel and adventure.

I built up a steady addiction to McVitie’s digestive biscuits, both plain and chocolate covered, and watched the seasons change from spring to summer as coats were shed and the English started turning a bit pink, like salmon.

Months after putting my files of classic 90’s romcoms to rest, I find myself rereading lines of Steve Jobs’s biography. Both for business and pleasure, this text seems to resonate now more than ever before. In speaking about the realistic possibility of impractical dreams, he refers to Lewis Carroll’s Through the Looking Glass. After Alice laments that no matter how hard she tries she can’t believe impossible things, the White Queen retorts, “Why, sometimes I’ve believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast.”

Touché, White Queen. Touché.

School was tough, still is. It is constant, never ending, always there. But the truth is that I am happier having something to do. I joke to my friends that I need scheduled free time, but hey, it’s how I roll. Always have. And while the papers were being written, edited, chopped, cut, pasted and rewritten, one of my closest and oldest friends—excuse me, the oldest of twenty years—told me some news that paved the way for my most epic summer yet.

We have known each other for two decades. For all the times I never understood people who have shared the same group of friends since elementary school, she is mine. And even though we went our separate ways at the end of the 7th grade, something of great substance kept us traveling in and out of each other’s lives. I don’t know why some friends stick around for a day and others for a life time, except to say that everyone we meet serves some sort of purpose in our lives, for who we are and who we might become. I don’t know that twenty years is any more a guarantee but I do know that it is something very special to be in the comfort of people who know you now just as well as they did then. She is that for me. We are incredibly different, the two of us. Not so much the odd couple, but a lesson to each other. What I didn’t know in the midst of a dissertation was that we both needed this summer for reasons that went beyond our love to travel, to be in motion.

My Papa Abe recently wrote down his life story. Suffice to say, he puts my letters to shame, but one day when these letters of mine fall into a book, he will be the one it is dedicated to. I’ve read his story a few times now, never getting through the first paragraph without crying. Yes, I cry at the drop of a hat, forever dealing with my inability to hide my emotions. But I cry reading his opening line because it is where he thanks the break of day, every morning, for the life he has made for himself. I found this act so lovingly humble in its simplicity that while I was away and even now, I take a moment every day to tell myself how very lucky I am. My life, like my Papa’s, is beyond measure, so only words will do.

In the beginning, it all sounded like an impossible dream. Drop three copies of my dissertation in the hands of my tutors, take the tube to the airport, travel to Turkey and Israel with my family, spend another 10 days in Israel on my own, travel back to London for five days and then board the Eurostar to Paris. That would have been enough, more than. But we all know that great travel takes unexpected turns and my summer took me beyond Paris, to see some of the deepest corners of France, Spain, Amsterdam and Germany too.

We had notes and ideas and lists of things to do, but underneath it all, we wanted to get away. There wasn’t an objective or a goal; Just a house in Paris that had been gifted to us for the summer. We wanted to live in Paris and that is exactly what we did. We ran in the mornings, shopped at the markets, cooked dinners at home, made lunch for the day, went to the cinema and drank wine. Lots of wine. We wanted to put our lives in our respective homes at a distance while we experienced the here and now in Paris.

So it began. Life in Paris. Thinking about it now, I still don’t know when Paris is at her most beautiful, but two days after we arrived, we saw her light up at night whilst we rode our bikes in the direction of the Tour de Eiffel and yeah, maybe that is as good as it gets. From our home, we rode past the boulangeries, fromageries and charcuteries that overwhelm Rue Monge (literally, Food Boulevard) cornering past the Jardin du Luxembourg, and then up towards the Notre Dame where we turned left and met the glowing lights of the Louvre as they reflected in the Seine.

We wanted to watch the infamous light show, when the Eiffel’s golden steel bars melt away behind a sheet of white, flickering stars for five whole minutes at the top of every hour. And we were right on schedule too, cycling along the Seine, laughing and smiling at the absolute marvel of our lives, when we spotted the dancing stars just beyond the bottom of Saint Germain des Prés. I know it sounds so cliché, racing against time to see this light show, but honestly, it never got old. We did make it with enough time to find a bench, drop the bikes, sit in silence and just look because sometimes, no picture will capture what the eyes can see on their own.

We rode bikes as often as we could, but they weren’t always glamorous adventures. The first time we decided to experiment with the public cycle system, I was almost half way down the street when, let’s call her B, fell off her bike almost immediately after mounting it. The bike and B seemed to get into a bit of a tangle and before I knew it, B was on the ground, with a bad bruise, a few scratches and some very inquisitive Koreans standing over her. They nor I knew what to do, but B had had enough for the day—or so I thought—and just as I had checked my bike back into the system, she surprised us all and said she was ready for another go. Off we went. Overcoming fears. Loving every minute. Addicted as ever.

When we weren’t on bikes, we were on foot. We walked and walked and walked and in some sort of defiance against the metro, we walked and walked and walked some more. We walked because it made no sense not to. Everything was so beautiful, we couldn’t bear the idea that we might miss something if we were underground or on a bus. We never walked with a map, mostly because every bus stop has a big, clear map of the whole city and in the event that we got lost, which happened quite often, it didn’t really matter. We were never in a rush, except for one day, at about five days in, when we had a package to pick up at FedEx. In trying to relay this day, I’ve given up because the notes we kept do a far better job than anything I could manage.

Paris July 31

Left for a run/walk to go to FedEx

All went wrong at Luxembourg Gardens

Found Chirchei Midi

Got lost finding Seine. Crazy Frenchman gave us running location advice. No one else in Paris knew where the Seine was. Eventually found the river. Made it to Haussmann, the street for FedEx. Mistakenly thought the address was 663 instead of 63. Claud miraculously turned around right in front of it. Otherwise would've had hours to go.

Bus home. Nice driver.

Went to our boulangerie Monge for croissant. Claud bit into croissant and lost a piece of her tooth. Booked it home. No dentists available. All on vacay. (No Parisians in Paris in August, or on July 31)

Tried the police station but was gunshot wounded and abandoned. Found Mecca of hospitals. Wished for more ailments. Saw the downside of national healthcare - take a ticket and wait. Claud’s famous line: "these people don't look like they have dental issues"

B: blank stare

Back home phoned everyone

Claud shouted from bathroom. Lost more tooth. Felt ok after talking to dentist from home.

Had to get out. Beautiful night. Bottle of wine and fries.

Amidst the epicness that was FedEx and the somewhat minor/major issue of losing half a tooth, we found ourselves constantly befuddled by the imperfect interruptions to our seemingly perfect days.

There was the time we sat down at quite a fancy café on the Champs-Elysées to have our first Parisian café experience and were brutally rebuffed when we wanted to leave after finding out that an espresso was twelve euros. No big deal. B had been offered water by the waiter and while we should have known it wouldn’t be tap, we were horrified to find out that it too cost twelve euros. Our perfect day in Paris seemed to be coming to a screeching halt, but after leaving the bourgeois café in a huff and forgetting to take the most expensive bottle of water ever, a lovely waitress just around the corner rescued our romantic hearts. After we ordered a well priced espresso of 2.5 euros, B managed to spill hers (are you sensing a pattern here?) before even having one sip and when the waitress brought her another and then the check with only 2 espressos and not 3, we smiled warmly and walked home with our faith in the French somewhat restored.

These slight imperfections brought us back to reality in a city that seemed like fantasyland.

The first time B and I ventured into the Latin Quarter, I was so excited to speak the few words of French I knew that when I opened my mouth to say bonjour to the very good looking French waiter, butterflies took over and out came au revoir instead. The waiter just looked at us, as French as ever, while B and I burst out laughing because really, shit happens.

Even on the most beautiful days, when sun bled so far down our backs that we resorted to dipping our feet in neighborhood fountains, the evening clouds would bring rain but we welcomed it with open arms and continued to stroll as usual. As a student and former investment banker, respectively, we took Paris by storm on twenty euros a day.

Twenty euros took us pretty far. We visited my favorite museums in Paris…for starters, Musee de l’Orangerie, Centre Pompidou, Musee Rodin and Musee des Arts Decoratifs. But we didn’t stop there. Not even close. Onwards and upwards, ho!

We saw an exhibition of phenomenal photography by Korean artist, Ahae. His images, so pure in their vision of nature, took us both by surprise but prepared us well for our day trip to Giverny where we frolicked amidst the water lilies of Claude Monet’s home and garden. The whole scene was surreal. It was the kind of day where I just sat there thinking WHAT IS MY LIFE. The water lilies were full of so many colors and the weeping willow, which is often featured in Monet’s work stood off in the distance, as if it was carefully watching over the rest of the garden. The lilies were red, yellow, purple…a true mess of vibrant emotion.

Even whilst we roamed the garden in a sort of meditative state, I giggled to myself thinking about one of my favorite lines from the ultimate movie of my generation, Clueless.

Tai: Do you think she’s pretty?

Cher: No, she’s a full-on Monet.

Tai: What’s a Monet?

Cher: It’s like a painting, see? From far away, it’s OK, but up close, it’s a big old mess.

 

It’s true. Cher is right. But it was the most beautiful big old mess I have ever seen.

On the days where we didn’t spend all that much because we weren’t museum hopping or day tripping, we took our extra pennies and splurged on drinks at the very swanky Buddha Bar.

The first time we went, it worked out perfectly. We managed to spend only three euros that day and quite fortuitously, the drinks were 17 each. Twenty euros well spent, I’d say. That night in particular was so apt in its description of our time in Paris: We had a destination, Buddha Bar, but with no exact time for which we had to arrive. We decided to walk, obviously, and without complaint or any muttering of negativity, we arrived at our destination two hours later. We didn’t take the fastest route nor did we care. But arrived we did and drank we did and a superb time was had by all. And for the imperfect part of the evening—if only to remind me that I am indeed a klutz and a half—I managed to bend some part of my thumb backwards on my chair and only now, more than two months later, does it seem to be healing.

We loved Paris, but we wanted to explore as much of the rest of the country as we could. So, with all the other Parisians, we too left for the beaches of the South of France. With our rail passes in hand, a bruised thumb, half a missing tooth and some fairly fair skinned bodies, we traveled a few hours south to our first stop: Lyon.

Again, I refer to the journal:

Paris to Lyon August 1

Couldn't figure out bus (now that we were actually under some mild pressure) so cabbed to Gare Lyon

Relaxing, scenic train ride

Crazy lady on train, tearing receipts and stuffing into envelop

Super sweet SNCF representative helped us find our way

Questionable walk to hotel

Room is decent. No chateau Tom aka our home in Paris.

Left for a walk. After passing grunge-ville, beauty of the city unfolded. Gorgeous bridges and buildings. Came upon the perfect cafe. Lunch and wine. Bliss.

Roamed the streets and found epic bookstore – life size guitar book. Wanted to purchase but faced a lack of money and lack of space.

Walked through town to river. Sat, soaked feet and met a Spanish woman. Practiced Mexican.

Got a beer at riverside bar as clouds approached.

Felt drops as we left the bar.

Claud told story of a time when a similar situation happened with brother Jon when a few drops turned to deathly nightmare in Budapest. Famous last words.

Enter torrential downpour. Took cover inside abandoned apartment building. Tried our luck to see if door was permanently unlocked and got kicked in ass. Took cover outside under door archway. Ran for cover under abandoned bus stop. Rain/lightening/thunder like no one's bizz.

Splash zone for cars. Wet to the bone. Started to pray.

Claud tried hitch hiking as B protected camera with hat and map. No luck for far foo long…until hot dad in minivan pulls over. Bandana. Barely spoke any English. After a few wrong turns made it to hotel. B sat in baby's car seat entire ride back. Didn't even get his name but shall always be remembered at hot dad who saved our lives.

After drying off, grabbed burgers at pub nearby and called it a night.

 

Almost dying aside, no joke, we both agree that Lyon rocked. But one day was all we had and off we went, hopping yet another train to Avignon. Ah yes, the day we found a beautifully walled city with a famously unfinished bridge, a hidden pool, and a whopping two train stations for a city the size of my flat. Shaking head.

The day was really quite enjoyable. We walked with our packs, stopping for ice cream and espressos as usual. We found the river and got lost inside a maze of walls. We saw the unfinished bridge and decided we didn’t need to pay six euros just to walk on it. We crossed the river over one bridge that actually was completed and after reading a few days’ worth of old Financial Times, we discovered a semi public pool and it felt like we were golden. Which, in all fairness, was true. The beers were cheap, the water was refreshingly cold and we felt like our time on the beach had started a little earlier than planned. We left the pool with time enough to take a leisurely walk back to the train station where all things considered, we should have had more than enough time to catch our train but it was then, when we looked up at the DEPARTURES board that we realized we were indeed at the wrong station.

In a panic, we checked the tickets and did a fair bit of swearing as we bolted like Hussein out the station. B fell (yet again) and scraped up her knee. No man left behind though, so she got herself together and we ran with absolutely no idea where to go. What walled city has TWO train stations? Ugh. Ridiculous!

As soon as we reached the main road, a bus approached and it signaled that it was headed to the OTHER station. Fine. We chase the bus. No one is on the bus once it stops. We explain to the bus driver that we have a train to catch in ten minutes at the other station. He speaks no English. A woman boards the bus who immediately functions as our translator. We then realize that the other station is indeed ten minutes away and the bus cannot leave for another three minutes, as it needs to wait for more passengers. We hate our lives. B looks like she could kill someone, and she’s got a bloody knee to prove her strength. Our translator tells us that there are no more trains out that night and we start to add up potential money lost. It’s a lot. Three minutes are up, and the driver steps on the gas. We still believe it was his speeding that got us there and on the train as it was pulling away from the station. Bless our driver. Bless our translator. Vive la France!

It’s safe to say that our trip to the south of France was full of little mishaps. From almost missed trains to legitimate crazy people trying to board them (and then escorted off) we had our share of plans running way off course. But I suppose that each little jolt reminded us both to pay respects to the nods of imperfection that came into our lives whether we liked it or not.

I’ve always believed that we show our best and worst selves while traveling. It’s almost impossible to hide anything, especially when things were not going our way. And even when things did go our way, and we were early for trains that were leaving from the station we were standing in, we still showed our true selves and checked the board a good five times to make sure we were indeed at the right station. In the end, it doesn’t really matter how free we felt or how much we let ourselves go. There will always be the same person at the core and I suppose all we can do is hope that when people point out our ridiculous neurosis or paranoia, we just have to laugh at ourselves and continue on.

We did make it to the south eventually. Over the course of three days, we traveled from Toulon to Juan les Pins to Marseilles and back to Paris. We lived in bathing suits, lathered up in sun cream and frolicked in perfectly clear sea green and aqua blue Mediterranean water. It was perfect. We waited for disaster to strike, as per our usual routine, and as luck would have it, there was another crazy man on our train to Marseilles. We moved cars and met a couple 18-year-old Spanish boys from Barcelona. Not a total loss.

When we weren’t in the water, we people watched like it was going out of style. We made up stories when all we could see were mouths moving and struck gold when we found ourselves sitting just behind a group of six elderly French women. Code-named The Six Pack, these older, leathery women each had personality, pizazz and swagger. They were Magazine, Noodle, Diva, Grand Puba and the two that left early, respectively. They seemed to have known each other for decades, and had absolutely no tan lines except for a small white patch beneath the bottom of their bums. Yes, we stared. We stared and pondered what they were saying and when they went into the water, so did we, but our attempts at making new friends failed miserably and eventually, they left the beach looking like glamor girls, putting on their heels once off the sand. They colored every picture I had in my head of what elderly French women who have spent too much time in the sun while chain smoking long thing cigarettes must look like. But they had class and beautiful clothing and for that, they had my utmost respect.

We left the south on a high higher than high and returned to a drizzly but still beautiful Paris. We jumped right back into our local clothes and found a cinema where we could watch an American romantic comedy and gush to each other about love lost and found in both our lives. Having known each other through all of our escapades, it was a wonder that we always had more to say. But in a city as romantic as Paris, we often found ourselves sitting at the kitchen table after dinner or outside on the veranda with a few bottles of wine talking about the people who were on our minds, occupying our thoughts. Whether it was people from the past, who we hoped would be long forgotten, or new friends that hadn’t yet become second nature to either of us, we sat and talked and drank and went to bed feeling a bit more secure about who we were and what we wanted.

We soaked up Paris in every way we knew how. We had our local boulangerie that we stopped by on the way home from a run or on the way out for the day. We visited old neighbourhoods and discovered new ones. We took leisurely strolls on the Seine and visited the canals of the 19th arrondissement. We packed picnics and read our books in the Luxembourg gardens. We visited new parks and fell asleep lying beneath the trees. We stopped into stores we could never afford, if only to appreciate beautiful things made by talented people. We rented a very small but surprisingly heavy sailboat and had our fun following it as it sailed across a large pond of very dirty water. We went to food markets and flea markets, buying as much as we could carry for the journey home. We discovered a chocolate mousse in the supermarket that I hope to never live without again. I died a death with that chocolate mousse. Sigh.

Before we left France for the beaches of Spain, we made our mark in the Northeast and Northwest of the country. We traveled to Beaune to taste some wine, though the whole town seemed a bit like Disneyland and I came back to Paris thinking about how I’d rather drink a nice bottle at the kitchen table instead.

A few days later we traveled to Normandy, a destination that I foolishly hadn’t given much thought to. The truth is that underneath this fine art school exterior, I am quite the history buff and love pretty much everything from history books to decade driven movies. I love history for its romance, its nostalgia. But I suppose that above it all, I love history because of its suspension, its crisis, its themes of ever-accumulating past and its formation on how we look at the world. And when it comes to American history, I find my South African born self feeling ever patriotic and passionate about those who fought and continue to fight for our freedom.

We went to Normandy excited and nervous about what we would see and how we would feel. The whole day felt like a time warp had taken us back to the very first day of the Normandy invasion as we stood on the beaches, walked through the cliffs and paid homage at the cemeteries. It was a cold, windy and rainy day, which seemed fitting for such an occasion. The air was thick and eerie and I couldn’t stop thinking about how many men had fallen on those beaches. We were told of facts and figures, each one more staggering than the one before. We looked at pictures taken during the invasion and amidst the sadness that was that day, I was inspired again by the power held in those photographs. Our trip to Normandy was a day unlike any other. It was a moment to stop and remember. We came home exhausted from a day that felt like an emotional rollercoaster compounded with information overload. But in a summer full of endless faffing about, it felt good to take some time and look back instead of forward.

As soon as we found our feet again, we left Paris one final time. Our journey took us Southwest to Bordeaux. That city is a wonder. Still now, I don’t think either of us has ever seen a larger amount of wheelchairs, usually with a complimentary King Charles, in any other city around the world. Even so, we immediately fell in love with Bordeaux. We walked along the river, cut into various gardens and watched ducks groom themselves as the rest of the city stood very still on a quiet Sunday afternoon. But as the sun set, people emerged from every direction and soon the bars were packed, restaurants were full and our walk back along the river felt like we were part of a completely different city. Not to worry, there were still plenty of wheelchairs and King Charles to be had. Amidst them, we spotted swing dancers at a local outdoor dance spot, we scurried around hundreds of little fountains shooting water up into the hot night sky and we got lost in a maze of alcoves and alleys as we tried to find our hotel. We did make it back, eventually, after we shared two scoops of my all-time favorite flavor: Mint chocolate chip.

We left Bordeaux for Bayonne and Biarritz. Lucky us had another crazy French woman on the train with her poor Spanish niece. As I tried to finish up some postcards and enjoy the ride, B got tangled into a very ugly mess of translation with the conductor from French to English to Spanish. French Tia (aunt in Spanish) babbled loudly and sang the entire train ride. I was fairly displeased and put on my death face. The whole translation culminated into the super simple task of switching train cars as to not miss our stop. I would have thought we had to take horses, a cow and possibly a bike to get to our destination considering the amount of time spent on the explanation via the conductor and crazy French Tia. In the end, we just shook our heads, and escaped the dynamic duo as fast as possible.

Bayonne and Biarritz are just a half an hour apart but it feels as though one is traveling between old and new. Bayonne is a classic town, surrounded by bridges, canals and riverside restaurants. Biarritz is a surfer’s paradise packed with throngs of beach goers all set to the soundtrack of a gorgeous man with a ridiculous visor selling beignets on the beach. We parked ourselves on the beautiful sand until sunset, listening to the man shout, ‘Abricot! Nutella!’ whilst children chased after him to get their life size donuts full of delicious goodness. Yum.

This pattern continued for another day as B and I reveled in our last hours together. We sat on the beach, surrounded by our packs, bags, books and journals as we remembered all the moments from our last six weeks together. Everything that wasn’t said was said that day. It was all out there now. All the fears and the secrets, the family nuances and the insecurities were put into a little time capsule that will forever be a part of the year I moved to London. It was the end of the beginning, I guess.

But it wasn’t totally over just yet. That night, after our last day on the beach together, we took a beautiful (albeit bumpy) ride winding along the Basque coast en route to San Sebastian. It was then, when we were hungry, tired and badly in need of showers and clean clothes that we entered into our most epic night yet. In a different way, it beat out all our nights of bicycle rides in Paris, all of our long walks around the city and our days on the beach.

Bayonne to San Sebastian August 21

Super cool vibe and hostel.

Everyone crowded in the kitchen eating paella and drinking when we arrived.

B and Claud showered.

Complementary paella and cervesas thanks to Mario. Met the hostel crew ... Mario, Piedro and creepy Carlos. Heard buzz about pub-crawl.

Mario waited and escorted us to first bar. Drinks and fun! Second bar literally next door. Shots and the start of dancing. Headed to third bar. Downstairs drinks and dancing.

Claud and B were hit dancers of the night. Another shot and beer. Who's counting?

Fourth spot aka club where shit went down.

More dancing and more drinks. B and Piedro/Claud and Mario high school make out sessions. 4:30 am stagger back to hostel. Last goodbyes.

B left an hour later for a magical six-hour bus ride and I was left alone. It took a little bit of time to stop looking for my partner in crime, but eventually things were just as they should be. I was back to traveling alone, figuring things out as I went, looking at pictures on my camera as a gentle reminder that the stories I tell myself in my head really…did…happen. But I missed my friend. At the most basic level, I missed having someone who found my jokes legitimately funny, which, unfortunately, they’re not always as humorous as I’d like. But more than that, I missed the companionship and it was a privilege indeed to experience life at this stage of our lives together.

I left Spain with a big smile on my face, ready to face the life in London I had so swiftly left behind. I came home, did a few loads of laundry, saw some friends and before I knew it, I was on yet another train. This time, it was to Amsterdam and Germany. I went with school friends, the kind that are not life-long friends but very well might become them. They are the friends who are so new to me but in so many ways, they are incredibly intuitive, intimate and gentle. They are the people I am excited to go to school for, the kind that I’ll travel an hour for just to have a cup of tea and the ones who are as intellectually stimulating as they are naughty, silly, and totally ridiculous. I suppose as I get older, I just want to spend the free time I have with completely fabulous people and a year later, I’ve got a few more than just one. What a gift.

Amsterdam and Germany were all art all the time. We saw a friend’s show in Amsterdam and then drove to Germany to experience the splendor of dOCUMENTA 13—an exhibition of the most Contemporary art that only happens once every five years. All I can say is ‘Wow’ because it truly was beyond. I saw work that made me laugh and work that made me cry and by the time we returned to London, I was ready to jump back into it all.

Well, that’s not really true. I mean I was excited to be back in London and I liked the idea of getting back into the books and picking up where I left off…but I wasn’t sure about my place in London. This summer was incredible, but it shook things up without the slightest intention. What I only realized when I returned to London was that all those bike rides and all those walks and all those chats over wine at the kitchen table opened up a new life that I didn’t want to leave behind. And when I came back to London, the struggle to maintain that sense of wonder just seemed inefficient and a bit out of place.

But now, as I sit here staring once again at my coaster, I know that it took a year. It took a year to stop trying to nest because as my friend Rachel likes to remind me, nesting is very expensive. It took a year to love my flat for what it is and leave everything else behind. It took a year to make good, true, solid friends. It took a year to really love those pinstriped men coming home from work on the tube with the paper in one hand and a bouquet of flowers in the other. It took a year to try and figure out what I’m doing here and why I’m doing it and then just give into it because for now, I’m done asking those questions. It took a year to learn another city, another language, and another culture. It took a year to let go of heartache and find some sort of balance with who I am as I jump head first into my second year in this perfectly imperfect place.

Patience

February 2012

My mother told me that next to dealing with death, the physical act of moving somewhere can be the most traumatic event for an individual to endure.

I have lived in London for about five months now and I can tell you, without a doubt in my mind, that I have never felt so completely unglued in my life.  Now, my life has been relatively short—I’m only 26—but what occurred to me just before I sat down to write this letter was that all the countries I have previously traveled to were dots on a map that I have been fortunate enough to start connecting in my own random way.  Yet still, however many countries I name . . . India, Vietnam, Thailand, South Africa . . . they remain destinations, just points of interest in my brief biography.  Sure, the lessons I learned while traveling the world cannot be confined to an essay, but moving somewhere to live is not something any amount of travel could have taught me how to deal with. 

I know what you’re thinking, because I’m thinking it too.  How does moving to London, just another cosmopolitan city, even begin to compare to dealing with third world diseases, foreign languages, foreign food, foreign people, foreign everything?  The answer is that it doesn’t, not really.  It is a different world, here. There are so many geese. I mean, the Queen has dubbed the goose as royal so they really are everywhere.  It’s a fight to the death between Her Majesty’s bloody geese and me when I decide to go for a run in Regent’s Park and there they are, waddling around, because death is upon you if you try to mess with anything royal. This place is what the British call mental.  But, I digress. 

After almost missing my flight from New York to London (waking up at 7:45 am for a 9:30 am flight is not ideal and very much against Aires Family Airport Policy), I should have known that what seemed like an uneven start was just the tip of the iceberg for me.  The running joke between Americans who move to England and Englishmen who have lived in America is that the only thing we have in common is our language, and even that’s a stretch.

I don’t think I’ll ever understand what happened when I attempted to open a UK Bank account.  The dialogue will speak for itself:

“ Hello, I’d like to open a bank account please. Do you have any appointments available today?”

“ Yes.”

“ Brilliant. Can I have one, please?”

“ No.”

“ Why not?”

“ We don’t do same-day appointments.”

“ But you have appointments available?”

“ Yes.”

“ But I can’t have one?”

“ No.”

“ Who will be lucky enough to get one of these available appointments then?”

Blank stare. I walked out. 

Everything that has anything to do with what I’ve termed English Logistical Rubbish has a strikingly similar dialogue.  My all time favorite episode was when the University librarian asked me if I had corroboration when the printer I was using had a mental breakdown and shot out over 200 pages of illegible print, costing me a significant sum of money.  All I wanted was a refund.  After explaining the situation multiple times so that he knew I was not lying in order to weasel money out of Goldsmiths and going further to make sure he understood that, unfortunately, the printer could not corroborate my story because the printer could not speak, he finally retorted with, “ The thing is . . . here, in London . . .things don’t happen . . . right away.” I took a deep breath, stared right between his eyes and said politely, but with force, “ No shit.”

I left for London with a number of things on my mind.  I don’t think it could have been any other way.  In the months preceding my imminent departure, I tested my limits on family and on love.  After a few years of wavering on the issue, I decided to seek help from a therapist in order to properly deal with issues I had never been able to fully resolve on my own.  I gave in last summer.  I found the confidence to deal with old friends.  I found the security to believe in new friends and in the last few weeks before I left, I found enough of something to have a relationship with one of the sweetest men I have ever known.  It is easier now to acknowledge that he wasn’t right for me, but at that moment in time, he was pretty close to something really great.  Girls often talk about guys being perfect on paper and that was him.  I suppose the fact that I was leaving allowed me to forgo the emotions I wanted to feel but didn’t. I wanted young love—the kind without responsibility. I wanted bubbles and butterflies.  But my mind was in London while my heart was somewhere else completely.  About five months later and it doesn’t seem so crazy that upon arrival, I was a hot mess.

The concept of permanence hasn’t totally hit home, not yet at least.  I arrived three days before classes started and somewhat foolishly convinced myself that there would be more than enough time to settle in.  I laugh and shake my head now thinking about the way I ran around in those first few weeks, like a chicken with its head cut off, searching for things like the perfect laundry bag which I’ve since thrown out.  I wanted so badly to feel the way I had in those last few years in New York.  I missed my old apartment and my old neighborhood, of course forgetting that they weren’t perfect, not even close.  My old apartment, while uniquely fabulous, came with a slew of issues like little animal friends, faulty bathroom ceilings and no fire escape except through the front door. The latter not really being a massive issue unless my kitchen, the closest room to my front door, decided to blow up in flames.  It was so hard for me to remember that my life before London wasn’t exactly the slice of pie I prefer to remember it as.  I was so desperate to feel at home that I refused to even entertain the idea of what good fortunes would come my way with a little bit of time and its close friend, patience.

In the beginning, when I was still struggling with the blue carpet and bright, fuzzy orange chair that came with my flat, two new friends turned Tuesdays into the best part of my week.  The way we met was perfectly simple, but seemingly indicative of our respective personalities.  It was International Orientation at Goldsmiths, a day before the first day of the next chapter of our lives would begin. 

Blair was just a few steps ahead of me as we approached the New Academic Building together.  He held open the door for me, and I suppose that my traveler’s mind saw an opportunity for friendship, at the very least someone to converse with over first day jitters.  I thanked him for playing doorman and asked him where he was from.  After he told me that he was from Toronto, he returned the question.  With a smile on my face, I said I was from California and out of nowhere, like an apparition, Tanya appeared and said, “ California?” It was a done deal after that.  We’ve since termed ourselves The Three Musketeers, spending almost every Tuesday night wreaking havoc around London.  In joking about our group nickname, Tanya likes to say that the term suits us well.  We are, after all, just as sweet as the candy bar, just as shiny as the silver wrapper and just as needed after a long day. I don’t know why we clicked so easily or why it seems like we have known each other for far longer than four months, but I’m done trying to find a reason.  We just work.

Academically speaking, I had absolutely no idea what I was in for.  Sure, friends told me that Graduate School would be tough but when I showed up on the first day of class and found out that I would be giving a presentation three days later, I laughed in shock and cried a river on the inside. It was hit the ground running or die a terribly slow and painful death. I chose this program, a Master of Fine Arts in Curating, because it combines my most ardent passions—art, writing, and critical thinking—into one very unstructured, two-year full time course. 

We are seventeen students who spend four days a week discussing the dynamic relationship between art, artists, curators and viewers.  We use everything we know to question everything we thought we already knew.  But to be fair, questioning everything all the time is bloody exhausting.  I used to embrace not knowing. Even more, I advocated it. I loved the idea of not knowing, the inherent surprise of it all.  And especially when I spent last year traveling, I fell in love with simply going through the motions.  But now, not knowing freaks the shit out of me. I suppose it’s simple when I begin to break it down: the more I question everything around me, the less attached I feel to anything and lately, I can’t seem to find the ground beneath my feet. It’s ironic that I seem to have found the perfect course of study where I’m allowed, encouraged in fact, to never stop asking why. But some days I’d rather just live in the land of ignorance and bliss. 

It’s true that for years I denied being what my mother termed so serious. I love to learn. I always have. I speak about the world of academia like it’s a privilege and that at the core, you either love to learn or you don’t.  But somewhere in there, in between loving to learn and loving life, exists an ability to simultaneously think and let go. I don’t know that I’ll ever be able to actually detach myself from my frenetically paced thoughts in that way but I do know that when I feel like I’ve hit a brick wall, there’s a great pub with Guinness on tap just down the street.  It’s there, at the local pub near my studio, where I find some time to slow down, rest my brain, have a laugh with friends and remind myself not to be so serious. 

After finishing one term and just a few weeks into the next, it seems that the constant list of things to do is what makes surviving seem almost impossible. I joke that the difference between the 2nd term and the 1st is that in the beginning, I was drowning and now I have floaters but they’re very low on air. In short, I feel as if I am always “ON.” I don’t know how to switch my brain off anymore. Like my first few years in New York, I spent last term burning the candle at both ends because as a new resident, I didn’t want to miss a beat and as a new student, I didn’t want to fall behind.

I celebrated my four-week anniversary in London with a weekend of concerts and dance parties.  To top it off, I visited a family friend’s allotment, which provided a great reprieve from the ever-incessant bread and baked beans diet I’d been enjoying, say, every other night up until that point.  And then, after I’d seen a friend who I’d met whilst traveling last year, I fell victim to a brilliant conman’s ploy who pretended to be pissed drunk at the local pub and walked off with my backpack instead.  People around me said my immediate hysteria sounded like I was screaming bloody murder.  I lost a great deal that night and it took a while to shake that horrible feeling of being completely violated and wanting to bathe in a tub of Dettol on a daily basis.

Since those days of deep-seated insecurities and a constant unrivaled fear that maybe I would feel more secure about my intelligence, my artistic practice . . . (the list goes on) if I hadn’t moved so far away, I’ve managed to find a bit of a routine.  My Granny Bern suggested it would take about six weeks, but I suppose hanging out in the womb for two weeks past my due date should have signaled that I would indeed need a bit more time to settle in.  Like all good yoginis, I’ve found a wonderfully wholesome studio close to home.  It’s a sanctuary of sorts where rooms labeled Earth, Sky and Forest create a break from the every day in order to slow down, calm down and just breathe.

London is tiny.  It is a strange place where the circular nature of the Tube makes everything a bit less immediate than one would think. I’ve become an avid bus rider and an equally avid cyclist.  Her name is Betty and she’s perfectly contrasted with a black frame, white handlebars and strawberry red pedals for a necessary bit of funk.  Like anything to do with movement, cycling creates a new way of being.  I love who I become when I am on my bike.  In a very episodic way, cycling is a chance to experience another version of myself. 

Visitors have come and gone.  My lovely mother arrived just in time to rescue me from post-traumatic-theft-stress.  We strolled the streets of London together just as the leaves were turning and a slight chill started to fill the air.  We ate salt beef bagels, walked the South Bank, read newspapers on Hampstead Heath and hunkered down with a cone full of chips covered from top to bottom in salt and vinegar.  We laughed and cried and yelled and screamed.  My mother likes to flatter my intelligence and tell me that she learns so much when I babble away about some abstract fact I remember from the 7th Grade, but as we walked through London she was the one telling the stories.  I learned about the Soap Box Corner in Hyde Park, and the famous cigarette adds which still lurk around Tube stations reminding passengers that when they tire of anything to do with London, they tire of life.

The thing about having visitors is that in the end, they always leave.  And for whatever reason, which I still haven’t been able to pin point, soon after they’ve gone it’s like they were never there. It sounds so awful and I don’t mean any disrespect but by the time my mother and then my middle brother, Jon, had left me I felt like I just wasn’t equipped to start again.  But that’s when patience kicks in and rears its pretty little head.  Patience reminds me that I’m capable, that I was surviving before my guests arrived and I will keep surviving after they’ve gone.  It is patience that tells me to take a deep breath and just keep going.

First Impressions, over and over

21 March - 30 April, 2011

First impressions are everything, right?

I was twelve, heading to Israel for my very first time. I close my eyes and I can still hear the strange but wonderful applause that only Israelis make when the plane glides onto the tarmac at Ben Gurion International. I keep my eyes closed and remember the old airport in the distance. I was with my family. We walked down the portable steps from the airplane to the buses, which for some reason, no matter where I am in the world, will always remind me of ' the olden days, ' - the way flying used to be, I suppose.  I say this as if I was actually alive when that type of flying existed.  You know, when people smoked on planes, fell asleep in the aisles and wore suits because flying was considered a fancy affair.  I kissed the ground that time. Maybe it was out of passion or excitement or nerves. Who knows. I had seen so many pictures of Jews from Ethiopia kissing the ground and other Jews from all around the world. I'd like to believe I did it not because of what others had done before me but because I really felt something, deep inside of me, about this land and the people who protect its borders. I'll never know. And now, thirteen years later, all that matters is that I've never forgotten that day and hopefully never will.

For all my love of both the spoken and written word, I will admit that it has always been difficult to explain my love of Israel. A home away from home, it is a place that holds the perfect balance of being as familiar as it is foreign. In striking contrast to most other places I have traveled to these last six months, I know that I don't look as foreign with my green eyes and dark, curly brown hair and when I speak Hebrew, I break down another barrier just as easily. In truth, I try to speak Hebrew as much as possible because underneath it all, I don't want to be treated just like another American tourist. It's fine when I travel to a place for the first time and know that my backpack, water bottle and camera give me away as a tourist from miles down the road, but not now . . . not in a place I've traveled to over and over again. Not a place that I've studied since I was a child. Not a place that I know will always be happy to have me and treat me like one of its own.

But it's not always so easy to pretend I know more than I do. My Hebrew is good, not great. I understand far more than I speak and often have to ask a friend, waiter, or bus driver to speak slowly. Le'at le'at, I say. Slowly, slowly. The smells are familiar, the scenery is just the same as I remember from that very first time and the attitude of young, over confident Israelis will probably never change. But, for what it's worth, I still get goose bumps as I enter Jerusalem from Tel Aviv and see those glorious hills ahead of me. I still smile and laugh inside when I walk through the different shuks (markets) on the way to the Old City and watch all the shopkeepers trying to sell anything remotely ' Israeli ' to a passerby. I still close my eyes and picture the first time I walked through the Arab shuk and witnessed one Arab man running after another Arab man with a bloody knife. He came running right in the direction of my mom and me, only to find out later that he wasn't keen on attacking us but rather, wanted to chase down a man who had stolen something from his shop. I was so frightened that day and didn't want to walk through that particular shuk for a while afterwards. Even now, when I visited the Old City on multiple occasions, I still shuddered at the thought of that haunting memory. But, I keep going back. I go back for more, every chance I get, because therein lies the brilliance of this tiny, tiny country. I drive on the highways and look out at the land and simply wonder how they did it all. Through all the wars, all the bombs, all the rockets - if I didn't know better, I'd say it was a bloody miracle.  Pun intended.

The variety is what I love so much. I know that it's the different religions, fashions, languages and architecture that remind me how different and similar I am, all at the same time. I am always afraid and, perhaps as a consequence, equally aware of the possibility that one day, I might not get goose bumps anymore. To be jaded, now that is one of my greatest fears. The privilege of traveling to a place and even staying for a while is that it is not my home. It is not my normal life, and the people I meet are new friends I might never see again. There is great excitement and freedom in that. Every time I travel throughout Israel and stare out the window of a car, bus, or train and into her luscious green landscape, I inevitably consider what moving permanently would do to me. Would that jaded monster get the best of me? If I ever decide to see for myself, I'll be sure to let you know what happens.

For the first time, I had the privilege of staying with a family who lives just outside Jerusalem in a town called Har Gilo. Anyone who has had the luxury of traveling will tell you that staying with people who live in the city where you are a visitor changes everything. Overnight, you become a part of their life, their routine, their dinner table discussions and their after dinner stories. To them, it might seem mundane, even boring. After all, wouldn't you rather be on your own schedule? In the beginning, they asked me if I was alright with the fact that my new home was not exactly near to the center of town. In response, I told them that it wasn't my first time in Israel. It wasn't my second or my third either. I have visited enough, I told them, that it was refreshing to stay outside of town and inside a home. I was hungry for a big bed, a delicious couch, and a warm kitchen. Their home was beautiful, no doubt, but like anything truly beautiful, it emanated from the inside out. From the night I arrived and stayed up till four in the morning chatting to my new house mom, to the night I left for yet another flight to Johannesburg, I saw Israel in a new way, for the first time. I rode more buses than I ever had before, I took the train, hiked new trails, met more Israelis than I had on previous trips and I suppose, because I'm older and hopefully more mature now, I found a new appreciation for the same things I had always taken for granted.

I love to people watch. All too often, however, I am on the move to somewhere new and don't have the opportunity to stop and . . . how do they say. . . smell the roses? It is something I always find myself thinking about. Relax, I think to myself. Take a break, don't rush. But the truth is that I feel most productive when I'm on the move. I like being busy, I always have - like my dad says, ' if you want to get something done, give it to a busy person. ' But there is something so special about sitting still, and watching the people go by. A social experiment at its finest, I find myself entranced by the possible conversations people could be having. Sometimes I'll watch their gestures and make up a whole story just by looking at them. And when I get tired of staring out the door of a cafe, I will go back to whatever book I brought with me.

I'm quite sure that no other book would have provided as much happiness, solace and comfort to me as Gregory David Roberts', ' Shantaram. ' An epic novel in every sense of the word, Roberts intertwines love, friendship, family and death with exceptional attention to the detail of theoretical debates and personal sacrifice. Towards the end of his story, he tries to define what it means to love. He states, ' . . . You can't kill love. You can't even kill it with hate. You can kill in-love, and loving, and even loveliness. You can kill them all, or numb them into dense, leaden regret, but you can't kill love itself. Love is the passionate search for a truth other than your own; and once you feel it, honestly and completely, love is forever. . . it can never die. ' I find these words as beautiful as they are painfully true. Even as I look into my own life, as boyfriends have come and gone, and friends who I couldn't imagine a life without have slowly faded away, I know that they will always be there. Over these past six months, I learned that some friendships - most friendships - are not forever. There are only those unique few that will continue to be there, at your side, day in and day out, until the day you die. They are the friends that make life good and sweet. They are the friends that put you in your place and smack you around when you misbehave but will always be the shoulder you need when things go awry. Just like Roberts said, all those other friends and lovers and all the ones in between will never totally disappear. They might come back in a story or a photograph and that is special enough in its own way. And for the lucky few who decide to stick it out and stay around, I am a better person because of them. It has been an education to leave a city I was beginning to call home and learn from the friends I was assured would stay close and didn't, and the ones who I never expected to make the effort and did.

While I was living in New York, friends from University slowly made their way to Israel to begin a new chapter in their lives. When I wasn't in Jerusalem, I spent time in Tel Aviv, Tzfat, the Dead Sea, Haifa and Zichron Yaakov. I reconnected with old friends who I'd lost touch with and celebrated with other friends over the birth of a new baby, a new home, or just over the fact that they uprooted their lives and are just trying to make it work. My love for the simple life is always reignited in Israel. Mistake me not, simple is far from boring. It is the simple life that keeps us young, aware, and at ease. I used to think that if I could have it my way, I'd have a home in the city and a home in the country. But these travels have changed me - in ways I can't begin to verbalize to you. What I can tell you is that I don't want two homes, just the privilege of having one home close enough to nature. Even now, in South Africa, my best days were when I was sitting in the backseat of a car driving through the middle of the Drakensberg, or riding a horse through the mountains and rivers of the Champagne Valley.

I had great conversations in Israel. I spoke to new friends about their studies at University, and quite naturally, thought about my own dreams and pursuits. Things are different now. I know I'm going to be moving to a different country soon and I know that it's scary and exciting, but that it's what I want. We spoke about new artistic trends in Israel, what artists are doing today and how the younger generations are reacting to the decisions of those who came before them. The luxury of knowing Israelis is that more often than not, they are very aware of their Government, and sometimes I feel as if I know more about their Government than I do my own. When I saw friends from New York we ordered bowls of hummus and pita and spoke about relationships that fell apart, new books we were reading, and our own personal relationships to our families back home. We spoke about our fears, our belief in fate or lack thereof, and our insane love for the world less traveled by. We spoke, we drank and we danced and when I got home, I tried my hardest to write it all down.

My journey is almost over. I've been gone since the middle of November and just like I only realized what I was in for on my way to Thailand, so too, I will probably only realize that I'm heading home once I board the plane. Someone I met in Cape Town told me something I'll never forget. He said that when he left for a trip around South America, everyone he knew told him he would have the time of his life. He told me he wondered how they could say such a thing without knowing, without having been, and even more, he wondered upon return from South America how they were all so astute in their observations. My oldest brother, Daniel, told me the same thing an hour before I boarded my flight from Los Angeles. And just like my friend in Cape Town, I too wondered how he could be so sure, how he could say such a thing and even more, I wondered what if it wasn't true. But the thing about the people who know us best and love us the most is that sometimes, we just have to trust in them and what they say. Months later, experience upon experience, story after story and I can tell you I have had the time of my life. Without a doubt, these months have been the most life-altering adventure and I pray to anyone that will listen that I hope I continue to keep my eyes open and see things, old and new, for the very first time.

 

 

 

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Situations

27 February - 20 March, 2011

A friend recently told me that every daughter needs a sister. She said that there is no greater bond than that which exists between two sisters. In response, I told her that I don't have a sister but a mother instead. I told her, and reminded myself, that my mother is a dancer of many roles. She is a woman of class, a lady of insight, and a mother of wisdom. For better, and sometimes for worse, she is the voice inside my head. But, while I am her daughter and the youngest of three, we have managed to create a bond that is a wonderful mixture of daughter and friend.

I arrived in Paris from the cobblestone streets of Brugge to find my mother just as I remembered. We chatted just like old friends do, picking up the stories where we last left off, and observing the quiet reality that befriends a reunion after being apart for some time. The truth is that I have been apart from either one of my parents for longer than the four and a half months I had been away till the day I met my mother, but my body and my mind seem to have been traveling for years rather than weeks. I could probably sleep for days but that wouldn't really help at all. I feel like a train that must keep going because if I stop, the thought of starting again would be too much to bear. The naps I used to crave and love at University are now synonymous to the third serving of gelato I know I shouldn't have. I will feel nauseous, slightly weak and disappointed that I tried to heal my sore body with a heavenly scoop of Italian dreams.

I attribute my love for life to my parents, two people who have walked miles around this world. I know at the beginning, their hectic walks fulfilled a need for exercise but I know now that those walks are as important for our physical being as they are for our mental health. My mom and I walked Paris. In the weeks just before spring and the blooming cherry blossoms, we walked miles. I fell in love with the cultural dimensions of Paris. It was not a complex love but one based on basic, simple observations - the large side walks sprinkled with freshly fallen leaves, the tiny tables outside every cafe that somehow managed to fit parties larger than two, and the old men who walked slowly enough to smoke their pipes without a hand to help. Yes, the women and men were dressed like the stunning visuals in my head, riding subways and buses just like the rest of us, which somehow made their fashions seem even less foreign and more beautiful. And yes, their language sounded so fluid and sexy that I told my mother on multiple occasions I would learn French this summer. I enjoyed speaking the few words of French I knew and loved the smiles I received in return. I suppose the act of wanting to learn another language illustrates an effort that is usually respected and appreciated. And the truth is that we see places completely differently when able to communicate in the same language. It opens our eyes to the cultural habits of other communities and slowly, the barrier between us and them falls down.

My mother and I wasted very little time while traveling through Paris and Rome. We climbed to the 42nd story of the Eiffel Tower, if only to make a few stops for pictures.  Breathless moments of pure awe. I found myself wondering if most things are better up in the air. I have been on so many plane rides recently that I often wake up to look out the window at a cruising altitude (I love that phrase) of 35,000 ft and observe the serenity of the night sky. I know that the same sky I stare into, cluttered with stars, is the same sky that shines bright with blue and shades of yellow onto my friends and family that live a world apart. It's a mind-boggling thought that has kept me awake and bright eyed.

It didn't take long to find a cafe that was totally our speed. The first thing I noticed was the large U-shaped bar centered between two black and white tiled walkways with just enough space for two small tables to fit by the door. The first time we happened upon the cafe, there were three women sitting at the bar. Each read a different periodical, with their cappuccino and spreads, respectively.  Ah, The life. We spoiled ourselves with two classic French breakfasts and went out to explore the madness of the Marais district. There was a surprise waiting for us at the Jewish Museum: an exhibition of Chagall's drawings, prints, and paintings. They were so full of life and color - an instant reminder of the drawings we do as children that look as equally innocent as they are mindful. The Jewish Museum was one of many that we walked through during the days we spent together. I remember just wanting to sit in the Musee D'Orsay and wonder at the people walking all around us. The magnificent architecture that holds the work was enough to keep my eyes busy. My most favorite was the L' Orangerie Museum – quiet, all encompassing solitude. Round shaped rooms, dressed in white, with diffused lighting that shined through the skylights in the ceiling. Against the walls lay Claude Monet's Water Lilies. They seemed to move as we moved and for the first time ever, I wanted to take a picture with a painting. I never really saw the need before, after all, most textbooks have better images that any we could take with our cameras but these water lillies were just so ridiculously wonderful. The colors popped in every direction and even the ones that were more muted had their own way of speaking to the viewer. The purples and yellows and reds bonded as if they were made to be with one another. The interaction was idyllic.

The sun came out to play every day and we made every effort to bask in its glory. After visiting a museum or roaming through another neighborhood, we grabbed sandwiches and sat in chairs that were designed for bathing in sunlight. They were metal, green, and heavier than you would think.  The back was tipped back slightly which encouraged relaxation and rosy cheeks.

We were in Paris so, naturally, we had to have a crepe. It was a late night, one that had begun with flimsy directions but ended up being one of the best to remember. After wine and nuts and olives, I was eager for a crepe. We stopped outside a tiny window to have crepes with butter, sugar and lemon. ' The only way to have a crepe, ' my mother told me.

I had heard that the only thing better than being lovers in Paris was Paris at night.   Obviously both are the aim but I try not to be too greedy these days.  And while I have not seen all the great cities of this world shine their lights onto me, I do know that the city of Paris at night is magnificent. The architecture is phenomenal and the power of the bridges and buildings give me shivers down my spine. I love history. I have always been fascinated by it and it was such a high to be in a country that I have studied so much about. It's strange when something as intangible as history becomes so very tangible - walking on the same streets as Picasso or staring into some structure that was built hundreds of years ago. It is a thrill and it brings me back to earth if I have been otherwise occupied.

There is something so attractive about trains. Perhaps it's their role in history, their ability to show us the world while sitting still, or the calming sound of whistling engines running that ease me into sleep. We traveled through the night from Paris to Rome. While my mother caught up on an increasingly large pile of newspapers and crossword puzzles, I shuffled through my camera in search of pictures to remember moments whose details are slowly falling away. I traced back our culinary tour de force of Paris, from my first Croquet Madame to our lemon crepes and all the delicious croissants and cappuccinos in between. When we arrived in Rome, we wanted to eat and sleep but without realizing, we took a slow stroll and found ourselves at the Colosseum. I searched back through my high school memories and told my mother as much as I could about the Roman Empire, and how it collapsed in 476 BC due to a troubled government and weak borders. It's funny the things we know we will never forget and the things we can only hope we will remember.

I constantly find myself comparing cities. Perhaps it's some sort of strange defense mechanism to help me move on every time I travel to a new place, but I knew right away that I loved Rome for very different reasons than those I had for Paris. Rome was loud and almost obnoxious, defiant and a bit rough around the edges.  She is a tough cookie, though given that some friends say the same about me, I interpret it as more of a compliment than anything else.  Not sure what to say about that. 

I loved being a part of it. There was a rush unlike Paris and more beautifully dressed men than I have ever seen anywhere else. We walked through Rome without a guide book, which always gives me an opportunity to use my imagination- something I love to do. We walked through the Jewish ghetto, ate bread and pasta as if we had never seen food before and drank wine that left the most perfect bittersweet taste on my lips. Like in Paris, I found a similar fascination with alleyways and front doors- always wondering where they led to, who was lucky enough to go inside, and how long they had been there for?

My mother did leave me eventually. She flew back to San Diego, and I hopped on a train to Florence, followed by Venice and then to Levanto in the Cinque Terra. I've tried to find the right words to describe my last week in Europe but really, it's a combination of the photographs I took, the incredible people I met and the baguettes, cheeses and tomatoes that accompanied me on lines to the Gallery D'Academia, the Ufizzi and the hikes in the Cinque Terra. I met more Americans during that last week than I had my entire trip and was pleasantly surprised with the results.  Wink. I left Europe with a big smile on my face and I suppose it was not as wrenching to depart for I will be moving to London in the fall.  Let’s pretend that I’m going to Grad school for the academics not the traveling.  Oh, snap.

Lately, I've fallen asleep on the couch watching mindless television. It doesn't even matter if the channel is in English or Hebrew, I just want to stare into nothingness because my eyes are tired and it feels good to let them dissolve into blank space.

 

 

Just because we cannot see it, does not mean it isn't there

6 February - 26 February, 2011

My bus driver in Scotland was a man of average height whose pants were a bit too short and whose jokes were a bit too racy. His name was Alan, 100 percent Scottish bred, which meant fervent hatred for anything British and the belief that the rest of us are fully indebted to Scotland for a multitude of various inventions (namely, the light bulb and the wheel; don't ask). I'll admit that he had me at hello when, shortly after boarding the bus and leading us through emergency exit procedure, he introduced the black trash bag as 'ethnic.' Ah yes, please toss your rubbish in the 'ethnic' bag. Brilliant.

My cousin David assured me that if I didn't understand a Scotsman, it was most likely because he was drunk and haggard. After three weeks of traveling throughout the UK, I have no choice but to agree completely. There have often been situations where I am approached by anyone from England, Scotland, Ireland or Wales and I stand there in silence, waiting until the other party stops speaking and respond politely with, 'I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you just said. Come again?'

I received an email from my mentor in life and in academics shortly after arriving in London. The email opened with 'Ah, civilization.' I read those words with a sigh, because she was right. I might tell you that I loved the challenges of traveling through Asia, and the way a completely foreign tongue turned me into a fantastic pantomime, but when home feels so very far away, London shuffles her way forward to a close second. Even though London is incredibly visually attractive, I was not as camera crazy as one might think. Perhaps it was because it didn't feel very foreign at all. I liked the contagious rush that erupted in the depths of the tube stations and on the mile-long escalators. Don't stand on the left, I learned quickly. That means you have somewhere to be, and I didn't. I was fascinated with the amount of well-dressed men, and the way the English buildings (though most are reconstructed) reminded me of another time that I've only studied through films and photographs.

I visited my friends at the Tate Britain and Tate Modern. I saw paintings and sculptures that reminded me of the type of home I grew up in. And when I went for lunch with a colleague, we reminisced about the luxury of growing up with parents whose love encompasses not only that which they have for their family, but that which they have for the world around them.

Edinburg is a city of tangible beauty. She is small, intimate, and reminds me of Brugge, Belgium-where I am currently. I spent a week in the Scottish highlands, entranced in the mountains above and lakes below. It was breathtaking. I saw a surreal kind of beauty that is as natural as it is rare. There were days where I could not see another person or any form of civilization for miles.  I found myself rolling around in fields of barley simply because I could.

I often found myself spending time alone in the highlands. I suppose the serenity of it all was conducive to that type of behavior. And although Alan was famous for his slightly biased knowledge of Scottish history, he never failed to remind us that in a country full of ghosts and mysterious underwater creatures, just because we can't see something, doesn't mean it's not there. It's like faith, he would say. You just have to believe.

Poppy will always be my favorite English lady, but in her absence, I met two girls that became the friends we inevitably find when we aren't looking. One hails from Australia, and the other from New Zealand. In the beginning, the friendship was based on short conversations that ensued while taking quick snap shots of one another in the majestic background scenery- after all, what a gift to not have to approach another random stranger to take my picture as a single traveler. But soon, the three of us bonded like eggs on toast with a spoonful of Nutella. We spoke about all things girly and it felt warm and cozy to have friends at my side again. But, just as friendships go, we take one another in the good and the bad. I suppose it's like marriage in that way- an unspoken rule that we need each other most when we feel furthest from ourselves. And then today, I received a wrenching email from one of the girls who told me how worried and scared she is for her friends in Christ Church. We can travel around the world, I remember thinking, but that doesn't mean the world stops moving while we take time off from our sedentary lives. In a way, Chantel's email to me was a blessing. It shook me and made me remember that what I'm doing is as close to living a dream as it gets.

After spending a week with my fabulously racist bus driver, I proceeded to celebrate with my two friends Guinness and Baileys. I was on another bus trip, this time though, we were traversing through the lush green landscape of the Republic of Ireland. We visited beaches and cliffs, waterfalls and mountains, tractors and sheep. Our lovely Irish tour guide, Carol, taught us - among other things - how to pick up Irish men. In response to, ‘What drink can I get you?’ Answer confidently with, ‘I'll have a pint of Guinness.’ And when it came time for us girls to ask some questions, there were only two. 1: What tractor do you drive? 2: How much frontage (farming space) do you have? These were both tested and approved.

I miss the amount of never ending space in Scotland and Ireland. It is a blessing that I've come to Brugge before heading off to meet my mom in Paris. I sat by the canals, rode a bike and ate chocolate and waffles, not always together.

 

 

 

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Cape Town: The Meeting Place

7 January - 4 February, 2011

My dad and I often talk about relationships. He has enough stories and experiences about the people he has met that there is no point in questioning his life mantra: be nice to everyone, for we have no idea where those conversations might lead us.

Earlier this week, I found myself entranced watching ' Hook.' It is the time-old tale of Peter Pan and Tinkerbelle.  It is a story about love, happiness and dreams. There is one scene, a bit towards the end, where Tinkerbelle is sweet-talking Peter Pan and she tells him that there is a place between 'dreaming' and 'awake' and that this is where she'll be if he needs to find her.  The tears started to pour down my face.  I don't know why exactly but that line struck me and looking back, I think it is because I often feel that way when I am traveling - as if I am moving slowly from one surreal moment to the next, sleeping in between, waking up and not knowing exactly where I am, and packing my bags just as I start to feel settled. Yet, it is this act of constant motion that keeps me open and free. I know that there is a certain aura I exude when traveling. An aura based on nothing else than the fact that I am in limbo. But, as we all know, the most exciting part about playing the game of limbo is taking that step when we know we might fall.

Two days after I landed in Cape Town, I was invited to an anniversary party. It was in celebration of 31 years of marriage for a couple that my parents have known for the greater part of their lives, but for whom I had no personal connection. I walked in with the family friends that were gracious enough to host me and realized quite quickly that aside from them, I didn't know a soul. For a while, I walked around, meandering through the crowds, making small talk to people that knew my parents and stepping outside every so often to watch the waves crashing on Camps Bay.  God, it was a fucking dream.  And then, I took that step. It might seem that I, like my dad, have a 'thing' for meeting people. But the truth is that I've never found it all that easy. It's safe to say that, in fact, I'm quite intimidated by big crowds and often find comfort sitting with my parents and their friends at the dinner table rather than chat to kids closer to my age.  It’s true, really.  Maybe that is why I have always been more at ease behind the camera than in front of it. 

I have always been thankful that I have two older brothers who look out for me and make sure that I'm alright, but that night it was just me. So I did what most of us fear and took the first step. By the end of the night and for the next month of my travels, I was in my element. I met painters and filmmakers, writers and photographers. I could have easily spent that night just watching the crowds, but I was protected by the fact that I was leaving in a few weeks and literally had nothing to lose. Much later, I had a conversation with a good friend - a guy who I had met almost three years ago in New York but lives in Johannesburg - he asked me if I thought it was possible to live with a traveler's mind in our daily lives. In answer to him, and to myself, I don't think it is possible. In truth, I think that is why we travel. But, I do believe that if I've learned anything in the last month of my journey, it's that there is an openness to be had everywhere we go and that everyone we meet can teach us something about who we are.

I met a woman very soon after arriving in Cape Town who was a very close friend of a wonderful woman that passed away much too soon. Initially, we befriended one another over the connections we shared, through common friends and family. But soon, this woman - a talented artist in her own right - opened my eyes to the history and culture of South African artists. Together, we took a trip to the Irma Stern Museum, where I found myself completely in awe of this woman's home, and her art. I was overwhelmed by her use of color, the massive size of her palette, and the way her portraits seemed to tell the story of her own life. I know that I could have gone to see Irma Stern's work on my own, but it was a privilege to be there with someone who shared a similar passion and wanted to educate me on subjects that I found less familiar. It had been a while since I had been to a museum and if only for a few hours, my time there reminded me of who I am and what I want to do.

There is nothing like being home. And while Cape Town isn't my home, there were days where I felt wonderfully connected to my family and my past. My paternal grandparents were married in the Garden Shul, which is now part of a larger complex of gardens and museums. I knew I had to go and see the Shul, if only for history's sake. It was breathtaking. I felt full of joy to be standing in the same place where my grandparents were married.  Just to be in a quiet place, all alone, imagining what their wedding must have looked like. And then there is the rock on Clifton beach where, as the story goes, my father saw my mother and knew he had to have her.

My maternal grandparents came to Cape Town for a few days while I was there. In lieu of the fact that I have spent most of my life apart from them, I am fortunate to know that we have an incredible bond and relationship. My Gran, a vibrant and hard-driven lady, is a woman of class and value. My Papa is brilliant, probably the most well read man I have ever known and when I have the chance to talk to him - just the two of us - I sit and hope that one day I will write the book he always asks about. He is a simple man, the perfect compliment to my Gran, and after 56 years of marriage, they are all I need to know that there is someone out there who brings out the best in us. I look at my Gran and my Papa and see the mix that makes up part of who I am.

I photographed my way through Cape Town. I found galleries and artist communes and little sandwich shops in the middle of nowhere. I met random people walking down the street simply because I answered when asked, ' hey, are you from here?' I befriended a young woman who I first met when she gave me a facial, and I had lunch with a painter I met while I standing in line at a cafe. I never really finished the game of limbo. It was always about taking one more step, with the risk that maybe next time, I'd hit the ground.

I flew to Johannesburg last week to spend some time with my friends and family. The whole week was a whirlwind of helping with homework, chatting to old friends and simply just being. My older brother Daniel told me that as much as these journeys push us to be productive every day and experience the world, there are times where we just have to listen to our bodies and rest. So, while I wasn't taking the maddening trains and buses of India, I was catching up on the lives of people who I don't get to see very often. It was a very different type of productivity. I spent my days listening to music with old friends, lying in bed with my cousin and her newborn baby, and talking to my cousins about the troubles of adolescence.  God knows, I am still reckoning with those myself.

I know that the biggest advantage I have as a traveler is knowing that I am not here to stay. The people I meet, and the conversations I have will be just a memory. And while I often wish I had more time to spend with the new friends I just made, I know it was the inherent ephemeral quality that made those meet-cutes so perfect.

 

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India: The Beast of My Affection

It didn't take very long to remember that India brings out the best and worst in me. The driver that was supposed to pick me up from the airport was so late that a random Indian woman approached me to ask if I was alright when I had walked past her, up and down ARRIVALS for the tenth time. She was surprised to hear that it wasn't my first time visiting her country, that in fact I had been once before and stayed for a while, that her country had made me sick and for better or worse, left a lasting impression on my mind.

My driver found me eventually. But then, to no surprise of my own, he managed to misplace his parking ticket, tried to get me to buy a new one, and when I refused—in broken Hindi—he haggled with the parking attendant who finally let us out of the very fancy new airport in Delhi. At one point the driver pulled over on the side of the road to ask for directions and there I was, yelling up a storm—frustrated at the driver, tired from a long journey, and missing the previous life in Thailand I had gotten to know well. I sat in the backseat, taking deep breaths, slowly . . . in and out . . . trying to remind myself of where I was, the culture I was now a part of, and the fact that this India I speak so well of can often punch me in the face when I least expect it.

There is an article in Dr. Storm's program house written by an Australian woman who lives in Mumbai. She writes that India is a woman of mixed emotions (although what women aren't?), hugging her citizens tightly, slapping them in the face and then hugging them again.  My friend Peter refers to this sequence of events as being punched in the balls and then given ice cream.  I think he’s onto something.

I read each line of the article and felt an unbelievable connection to this woman's life. I am not sure why I love India so much. She can drive me absolutely mad. And it's unreal the way She comes to my rescue just as I am shaking in my boots, about to crumble. Her random acts of loving-kindness are what keep me going I suppose. For every ten awful hagglers that make me lose my mind, every child that I end up yelling at or almost wanting to hit, there is one fine Indian that inevitably sees me falling and comes to my rescue. But the truth is that India is another world, so foreign in Her ways that most people don't have the time or patience to understand Her. And even when we give Her some of our time, she makes it close to impossible to want more.

Her beauty comes about in the most unexpected ways. I see it when I'm in a rickshaw and the tail end of a sari flows by me from a woman who is riding side ways on the back of a motorbike, balancing perfectly like she has done it a thousand times.  The colors are serene and I love knowing that no two saris are exactly the same. It happens when any number of cows is roaming the streets, weaving slowly in and out of traffic, and I just laugh because the whole scene is a wonder. Her beauty is clear every time children wave at me with such excitement and when I wave back, how their excitement grows and they giggle and I walk away thinking how easy that was. She lacks privacy, this India, but strangely enough, it is this lack of privacy that allows me to stare, get information, take pictures and study Her madness. And when the children ask me for a picture, I have to take a second to remember that it's only fair, because I am as foreign to them as they are to me.

My brother, Jon, came to India. We had spoken about meeting up somewhere along the way and India just made sense. It is a privilege to see Her through someone else's eyes. Storm and Guy told me that they love his laugh and sense of humor, and I know that I had the most amazing experience because he was there. I know that my soul hardened a bit from my first visit. She does that to me, testing my mental and emotional capacity to stay 'level.' It was clear that Jon had plenty more patience than me. In response to almost any request from a passerby, it was he who kept an open mind. I just walked away and said nothing. I'm always shocked by how easy it is to zone out in a country full of so much noise.

We spent a few days in Delhi, adjusting to Her ways. The fact that She has roads, with lanes, but no one pays attention to the lines. There are signs now that say, “ Lane Driving Is Sane Driving.” They don't seem to be working though. Jon and I spent our first day together sitting in a car for three hours. We were supposed to go see some of Delhi's greatest architectural achievements but apparently our taxi driver had other plans, and those were completely opposite to ours. Nonetheless, we got a great sight seeing tour and I'll admit that being inside a car felt safe and good. Jon was hysterical with laughter, camera crazy. I felt like a little kid in a candy shop again, eyes wide open with fear that I might miss something great.

Jon and I departed for Agra, albeit almost missing our train because we nearly fell for an Indian man's ploy who told us that our train, along with most others were each 6, 8, sometimes TEN hours delayed. We were shocked, ready to hop in a cab and drive 5 hours, when Jon decided to just check the board with the train schedules.  And low and behold, we arrived on the track where hundreds of other passengers were waiting for the train that arrived perfectly on schedule. I was disappointed in myself. Surely I should have known that She could slap me in the face / punch me in the (balls) just like that.

There is no comparable beauty to the Taj Mahal. She is majestic.  The city, not so much. For lack of a better phrase, Agra is a shit hole and that's almost too kind. Strange things happened in Agra: Jon almost died when he swallowed some toothpicks that were politely hidden in the straw he was given to drink his soda. We almost died every time our tiny car with a horn that sounded like quacking ducks came up against a big TATA machine. There are traffic cops but they just seem to stand in the middle of the road, sipping chai, holding a big stick that I've never actually seen being used.

Aside from eating at Storm and Guy's home, I had the best meal of our trip in Bhopal. Our train that was on time leaving Delhi to Agra took five hours instead of three because of 'delays.' Classic. But not the Shatabdi—this train looks like heaven on wheels compared to any other form of public transportation. It was a great ride to Bhopal, complete with a small fat Indian boy who spent the majority of the ride stuffing his face with all the free food that the Shatabdi offers. There was soup, bread and butter all over this poor child. His parents just looked fucking exhausted.

Jon and I heeded Storm and Guy's advice and headed into some of India's most beautiful territory. But of course, I awoke on our first morning to find that Jon had been badly bitten by something in the night. His eye was swollen shut. It was huge, really. I told him to put on his fabulously fake ray bans that I bought him from Thailand and prayed that we would find a chemist. What we found instead was a street-side pharmacy, and a lovely Indian man who gave Jon what he needed and when we asked how much, the man said no charge.  There it was, a nice big hug / ice cream to start our journey off right.

From Bhopal, we took buses, trains and airplanes. We traveled from Bhopal to Sanchi where the air was fresh and the view spectacular. We got our first taste of Indian buses, where they don't really come to a full stop and my biggest fear was that I would fall backwards trying to hop on because of the massive rucksack on my back. We saw Buddhist stupas and temples. We saw few tourists and it didn't take long to realize why Storm and Guy love traveling to these places so much. They are the cities less traveled by.

On the way back from Sanchi to Bhopal, our bus, all decked out in Indian fabric and splendor, came to a stop and the driver turned off the engine. The traffic was bad and we had a train to catch. The Indian gentleman sitting next to me started speaking to me and when I responded in Hindi, I saw him grin. He left the bus, flagged down a rickshaw, and offered a ride to Jon and me. When we arrived at the station, he refused to let us pay. There She goes, hugging me tight when I least expect it.

I probably won't ever forget how we celebrated New Years Eve. We were in a dump of a hotel in Indore, lying in bed, beyond exhausted from constantly moving and just about to go to sleep when we heard random knocking on the door. Someone was knocking on our door and shaking the handle. Yeah, I was scared.  Too bad all the shows I watch on TV have to do with catching the killers and not surviving the onslaught.  We couldn't figure out who it was, the electricity had gone out and all we had was Jon's headlamp. Mine was somewhere but I couldn't find it. Obviously.  A few minutes later, the knocking continued. We asked who was there but no one answered. The door handle continued to shake. I covered myself in my sleeping sack, closed my eyes and went to sleep. Happy fucking New Year.

I had gone five days without showering. Somehow I reasoned that I would feel even dirtier, but eventually I had to rid myself of the thick layer of dust that had stained my skin. We took two buses from Indore to Mandu. The ride was beautiful. We were deep in the country, away from Lane Driving is Sane Driving. The roads were terribly bumpy and the extra thrill of being forced to stand really did make me feel like I was one of hundreds of sardines packed beyond capacity. Mandu sits on top of a hill, where there are canyons and water below. The nice hotels were booked, just like Storm said they would be, so we settled for a room that gave us exactly what we paid for: $3 worth. It reminded me of a barn, with a fence-like door. There was another very small room with a bucket and a squat-toilet, nothing that was new to us, but in a way I really liked it. The room was just what we expected, it wasn't faking it, and trying to be something it wasn't. I felt ready to shower.

We rented bikes for the day, but ended up just riding to one end of town and settling down on the lawn of one of the nicer hotels we would have liked to stay at. We watched the sunset over a beautiful lake while the monkeys had a field day jumping from tree to tree.

After almost a week of experiencing the not-so-romantic aspects of 'roughin' it’, Jon and I decided we would splurge on the one nice hotel in Indore. After all, it was either that, or head back to the nightmare land of random knocking and door handle shaking. It felt so good to have a proper shower, chai and toast in bed, and watch, Clueless, on the television.  Like, umm, watching Alicia Silverstone try to escape her Beverly Hills persona is like, uhmm, amazing.

Varanasi was all that I remembered it to be. I was curious to see what Jon would think, as I was sure that the big cities would start to blend into one another just like everywhere else in the world. But he told me quite quickly that he felt it was more open, the roads were less stuffy, and there wasn't as much trash everywhere.  The serenity of the Ganga seemed to add a breath of clean air that most Indian cities lack completely. We took a sunset boat ride, where we met a Canadian couple that had been traveling from the South through Calcutta and then to Varanasi. Naturally, we exchanged stories to explain the differences of our cultures. We spoke about the trash, and how the cows prefer to eat trash and cardboard to grass when given the option. I told them how Jon and I have purified almost every bottle of water with my Steri-Pen because of how sick I got on my last visit. They told us they took a taxi for 17 hours and it was the worst experience of their lives. I can only imagine. We chatted and took pictures, and when the Hindus started the religious burning of bodies, we watched.

Of course, I had to indulge in the textile heaven that is Varanasi. We spent the next day chatting to silk salesmen and had the privilege of visiting a silk workshop, where we watched young Muslim men make saris off the handloom. It is easy for me to remember why I love India so much when I am in Varanasi. It is the best place to people watch, and even though it was full of tourists and not so far-off from the beaten track, I found myself giddy and full of butterflies.

When we got back to Delhi, Jon said that it didn't seem as crazy and I think in some ways, he was right. Perhaps it was that we had seen so much and now had other cities and towns to compare Delhi with. The paved roads jumped out at me and I gave a sigh of relief when I felt like something was truly organized.

I told Jon once that I wasn't sure why I loved traveling in India, that I couldn't really pin point my feelings. In response, he asked me why I felt it was important to know, “Why?”

It isn't important to know exactly why or to try and explain to others how your trip was when in fact, there is no way they will understand.  I told Peter—cool balls/ice cream analogy dude—that the minute I see old friends it is going to be a game of ' tell me how your trip was' and I'm not so sure I want to play. I guess I want to be in a quiet museum somewhere where I can collect and reflect on my thoughts.

I am in Cape Town, South Africa now and this is my museum. It is, for complete lack of a better word, stunning. I am surrounded by the ocean on one side and incredible mountains on the other that disappear when the clouds drop down and cover Table Mountain with Her tablecloth.

I know that India will keep going. She will continue to challenge her visitors, inviting them on a wild journey that could potentially change them forever. I was so nervous to go back, to visit this beast. I struggle when I am there, but always come out alive and better for it. So while I don't know if or when I will be back, I know that I will always be glad I came to stay once more.

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Same Same but Different

7 December - 23 December, 2010

This phrase functions as a question, an answer, or a joke. It is an integral part of the bargaining process at markets, a way for backpackers to communicate their needs: ' do you have ray bans/elephant pants/haviana sandals/' 'yes, I have. . . here, ray ban. . . same same like you (referring to my real ray bans). . . but different.' So what he means is that he does have ray bans, or whatever it is that I desire, but they are slightly different i.e. fake, different color, different size, or just so completely opposite to what I want that we both laugh when he shows me a pretty good fake watch that is same same but different to the ray bans I requested.

The truth is, though, this nonsensical phrase provides an introspective look into the cultures of Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. In a way, the same-same concept is a means to understand two very different cultures. What the locals offer the tourists is almost like what we know from home . . . but different.  This phrase is a constant reminder of the discomfort that bleeds through my veins, while at the same time confirms the very basic reasons for why I love to travel. After all, it is to see the same but different, right?

I never knew how mountainous Laos was until I felt my stomach in my throat on the 12-hour drive from Vietnam to Laos’s immigration.  A beautiful drive, yes, with waterfalls, water buffalo (which I always saw on land but never in water) street side homes and lush forests. By the time I found myself taking deep Lamaze-style breaths in the passenger seat of a small van, we had reached the border. We never know what kind of immigration officers will be on the other side. In Vietnam, the passport officer bit my passport and bent a few of the pages- I assume to tell a real passport from a fake, otherwise he got a really bad taste in his mouth for no reason at all. In Laos, the officers were giddy with laughter. They were beside themselves with Poppy's flaming hair color and asked to take pictures with her- one even wrote her a love note that is now glued to a page in her journal for safe keeping. After all the giggles, we drove down the mountain to a small town, so small that they only have one restaurant called . . . wait for it . . . ' The Only One.'

To back track for a moment, the day before we left for Laos, we went on a walking tour around Hanoi. A visit to Ho Chi Minh's grave was a must but you can imagine my surprise when I was expecting a tombstone and found an embalmed Ho Chi Minh instead. He looks quite good for being dead almost 50 years, but apparently this is due to his annual trip to Paris where his body is re-embalmed every November.  I wish I had an all expenses paid trip to Paris every year.

In other news,

I shook hands with the Prime Minister of Thailand on our second day in Laos. We were at a Buddhist temple, faffing around outside, when a motorcade pulled up replete with press photographers and security. Naturally, we got quite excited and thanks to a gutsy British girl, go figure, we had our picture taken with the Thai PM.

All hail the mighty Joma bakery. It is a haven for travelers seeking smoked salmon bagels, Thanksgiving turkey dishes, or Challah French toast. There is one in Vietnam, and two in Laos. Of course, we stayed around the corner from Joma in each of these cities and spent a little bit more money just to have a little taste of home.

Joma might be the cafe that Westerners will happily get lost trying to find but Vang Vieng is a one street fantasy town that no Westerner can leave Laos without seeing. Bordered by a river and stunning mountains on either side, this town survives on the tubing money market economy- essentially, you rent a tube to float down the river, stopping at different riverside bars along the way. It's the antithesis of culture in Laos but I would be lying if I said it didn't provide a feel good break from the incessant hustle and bustle that is 'backpacking.' At these bars you drink, dance, have your body spray-painted (I had pink stars down my leg and my back, with HAPPY written just above my belly button) and then get back in your tube, rinse and repeat. It is a strange land where no locals are ever seen except for those who work in the restaurants and bars which, to make it even stranger, have shows like Friends , Family Guy and South Park playing on giant television screens. It is sad that this town has succumb completely to the tourist market but the reality is that for so many towns, the only way to stay alive is to find attractive avenues that lure tourists from every direction.

Elephants! I fell in love the day I met Kumong. Pronounced like come on, Kumong is a 26-year-old female elephant who, like her elephant friends at the sanctuary in Laos, was rescued from logging jobs in northern Thailand. The elephant population is rapidly decreasing in South East Asia, which makes it ever more important to support sanctuaries that buy elephants from logging farmers in order to give them a better life. It was a dream to be with her.  I fed her, bathed her, and rode on her neck with my tiny feet sinking beneath her large ears. I was completely at ease that day. In case you didn't know, elephants are very hairy and their skin is tough but for obvious reason. Kumong had gorgeous eye lashes- I told her she didn't dare use mascara, but maybe an eyelash curler for a hot date.

Laos is a Communist country with funny rules. It is assumed that everyone should be in their homes by midnight (because we all know only very, very bad things happen after the clock strikes twelve) and thus, all restaurants and bars close at 11:30. Drinking is illegal in certain cities so if police are nearby, the bars will shut the front door, put up a sign that says 'closed' and turn off the music. After ten minutes, everything goes back to normal.  Surprisingly, the routine never gets old.

I spent two days on a boat traveling up the Mekong delta. They were glorious days filled with napping, card playing, reading and keeping up my journal. I am so thankful for those days because everything slowed down a bit and nothing is more priceless than time . . . going . . . slowly – see what I did there? We slept at the intersection of nowhere and nowhere after the first day of boating, and we ate in complete darkness because the town didn't have electricity.

We took our last overnight train from Chang Mai to Bangkok. It marked the end of my month long tour where, just in case I forget, I have an arms length of bracelets to remind me of my travels.

Since returning to Thailand, I've left the madness of Bangkok and traveled to a small town called Kanchanaburi- known for it's waterfalls and stunning views of the river Kwai, this little town has everything to relax and recharge. After two days at the pool, a full-body-massage and drinks with new friends I made while walking around town, I came back to Bangkok for my last two days in Southeast Asia.

Last night I went to the night market near my hostel only to find that I'd stumbled across the gay scene in Bangkok. For those who don’t know, lady boys are a huge part of society here and are highly accepted as another sex. It is very common to walk through a street, spot a very good-looking woman, only to find (upon closer inspection) that she is, in fact, a man. Naturally, I felt uncomfortable walking down the street, as the bars were full of young boys waiting to be picked up by other men. My friend and I sat down to eat but I lost my appetite when an older white man was gently caressing the back of a young Thai boy. It's hard to accept with the eyes what the mind refuses to rationalize.  Between the lady boys and the Thai brides there is so much, almost too much, to wrap my head around.

 

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Yes, I like beans on toast.

26 November - 7 December, 2010

The passage of time has become a game I play in my head.  Poppy thinks I'm blessed with some sort of sun-reading capability because the last three times I've 'guessed' the time, I happened to be right. I don't wear a watch, not because I don't want to, but because mine broke a few days before I left for my trip and when my mom took it to the watch shop, it broke again on the way to the airport. All signs read ' Do not take a watch to South East Asia.' So I've left the knowledge of time behind me, and more often then not, my head lands up in the clouds.

The night before I left for Vietnam, I was on the beach in Cambodia enjoying a delicious $3 Asian bbq - fresh fish, rice, and beer with a side of young children asking me where I was from.  When I said AMERICA, they responded with: OBAMA.  All hail the mighty internets, I suppose.   I'm sure they know more about my country than their own. As the night continued on, my eyes fixated on the ocean front, and I found myself thinking about a meal I thoroughly enjoyed as a child. The story goes that at one point, while I was drifting off into the clouds, a girl in my group asked me if I was lactose intolerant and my response was a defiant, 'Yes, I like beans on toast.' When my friends stopped dead in silence, I had to ask why.

I couldn't help but laugh it off - It's true, I'm a random kind of girl, but I suppose that as the days go by, I've let my mind drift to wherever it wants to go - taking deep breaths and standing still, watching the world go by.

I have a few words to describe my experience in Vietnam: Rice patties, hammocks, and whitening cream. There are very few sidewalks and on the off chance one does exist, it is covered with motorbikes and rice. I walk as close to the side of the street as possible, often staring directly into the modest homes of the Vietnamese- from the bus, I see hammocks hung from pole to pole or tree to tree- they function as chairs, couches and beds to sleep in - At the supermarkets, it is nearly impossible to find a face cream, or deodorant without whitening powder. The Vietnamese are all about their powders. The other day, we went on a boat tour around the majestic islands of Halong Bay and when the Chef found out I was vegetarian, he made it a point of telling me that what I was eating was , ' no pork! powder! but look like pork! . . . no chicken! powder!! but look like chicken! ' I couldn't do the fake pork or chicken so I fed my food to the fish of Halong Bay.

It is strange to be in a country that I have learned so much about in school.  What we refer to as The Vietnam War is called The American War over here - and while the country has been unified quite peacefully and is growing as an agricultural powerhouse, there are strong reminders of Vietnam's turbulent past. A few days after crossing the border, we visited the Cuchi Tunnels - a mind-blowing maze of underground tunnels that swept through Southern Vietnam, run by the North. Replete with gruesome traps to catch US Soldiers, the tunnels became an unstoppable measure in the war and it is quite wrenching to walk on fields where so many died.

I have grown to love a good motorbike ride. Since I've arrived in Vietnam, the motorbike has become my main form of transportation - it's cheap, fast, and absolutely thrilling.  I’ve traveled up mountains to watch the sunset, eaten with monks at a monastery, met a woman who makes traditional Vietnamese hats with one arm, and made incense.  I've completed hours worth of sight-seeing while weaving in and out of the epic madness that is Vietnam.

There is a dance that the little Vietnamese women do when they are trying to sell you a pair of shoes - they kind of tap their toes very quickly and giggle, holding up the shoes they are trying to sell, which are now swinging from side to side - I did this dance in Ha Noi; the most picturesque town that is known proudly for its textiles and tailor shops.  I’d prefer to tell you that this city does not posses any sweatshop tendencies but honestly, I can’t be sure either way.  Let’s just go with my romantic vision for the time being.

The streets are lined with tailor shops, offering to hand-make anything you want, all they need is your measurements, some material and two days.  This includes picking a design, choosing fabric, getting measured, fitted, perhaps fitted again, and then doing a little dance when it is all said and done. The best part is that they take computer images of your body and keep your measurements on file so I guess you can take the girl out of Ha Noi but you can't take Ha Noi out of the girl. So much for staying on budget.

Getting lost is the best part, right? Welcome to Saigon - the five minute walk to the bakery ' just up the road ' takes about five minutes to get there and about five hours to get back. The night we left for our second over night train known quite commonly as, The Cockroach Express, Pops, Steph and I decided we should have food and water for this long affair. Well, by the time we returned, we were drenched from head to toe from non-stop thunder showers, and all we had to show for it were a few Asian-style pastries which basically translates to breaded sugar and ridiculous polka dot designed plastic ponchos (which made me feel like a wet tampon, gross, I know). Le sigh.

The Cockroach Express was as bad as it sounds. There was a crazy woman who randomly walked in and out of our car with a horribly shabby broom, chasing after cockroaches and using her flip-flop to kill the ones who were almost dead.  I appreciated her efforts and thanked her for her determination. She seemed indifferent. Poppy managed to find 'clean' linen, but when she started handing sheets out to the rest of the cars, one of the train personnel gave her a wicked eye. We weren't sure how to react because the truth is that she gets more weird looks than anyone due to her flaming red hair.  When she lies and says it's real, they go absolutely mad. So, we continued with the clean sheet escapade but to no avail. We hardly slept and spent the next day lounging on a beach, playing spoon (the card game; get your mind out of the gutter) and waiting for our glacier-sized ice cubs to cool our warm sodas.

 

 

 

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Tuk Tuk Economics

When I was waiting to board my plane to Bangkok last week, I figured that buying a few extra bottles of water wouldn't be such a bad idea. And when I found some ridiculously over-priced bottles and proceeded to pay for them, the cashier asked where I was from and then, where I was traveling to.  Within minutes, without prompting, she told me that the reason she had never traveled was because she had had a baby too young and was currently expecting.  I felt nervous, awkward, and short for words.  I looked around, as we humans do, dodging the bullet right in front of us.  When my eyes returned to meet hers, I let out a sigh and told her that a baby sounds exciting and now her son will have a play mate.  She looked at me, smiled, giggled under her breath and told me to have a safe journey.  I walked away, towards to my gate, and smiled as well.  It's amazing, I remembering thinking, how easily people will tell us their whole life stories, even if all we have time for is a small exchange over a few bottles of water.  It just takes one.

Bangkok is hot. humid. smoggy. It's a city where motorbikes and mopeds are a licensed form of taxis and the only reason I haven't ridden one yet is because whenever I have needed a form of transportation other than my own legs, I had a backpack and god knows if I got on a moped with my backpack, I'd last about a hot two seconds before falling backwards.  So, when my pack starts to lighten up or I just want some fun, I'll hop on the back of one of those.  In the mean time, I stick to the almighty tuk tuk. Pronounced, took took, the tuk tuk is a rickshaw, but holds up to 6 people and for some strange reason is much more expensive than an air conditioned taxi.  I always thought it was because it is more of a tourist attraction, but plenty of Thais take them so I've given up trying to find a reason to explain that one.

There is rarely one person on a motorbike and even two is far from the norm; It is more likely that you will see four, five, or six (the most I've seen so far). Yes, it happened in Cambodia when I saw : (from front to back) a baby on daddy's lap while daddy drives, another baby in front of mommy, mommy and the older kids behind her. I kid you not.

The combination of tuk tuks, mopeds, motorcycles and bicycles make for a beautiful dance through the streets of South East Asia.  I like to describe it as a kind of fast and dusty version of Swan Lake, where people drive until they might hit someone, forgetting about traffic lights or right of way. There are two rules for crossing the street, don't run and don't stop.  I have never seen someone get hurt and I suppose it is because almost everyone knows the rules and they bend and glide their bodies through the humid air with a perfect balance of confidence and humility.

Out here, life happens - it is all on the street, completely in my face and the only thing to do when I think I'm going mad is to laugh because underneath it all, it is a breath of fresh air.

My roommate's name is Poppy, and she looks exactly like her name sounds - short, oompa loompa style, flaming red hair, English bred, and a fantastic mixture of freckles and sheepishly pale white skin that makes me smile. Sometimes I call her my little red popsicle. She entails me with stories of her family, her home, her friends and her experiences.  We share our lives with intimate details because the reality is that when we part ways, there will be no obligation to return to one another. There is this unbreakable bond that originates from the simple fact that we have all come to travel, to get away and embrace the bizarre.  Traveling is staying present, reckoning with the past, accepting the future.

And then I turned 25 - We celebrated with a drive to and through the Cambodian border, and a surprise dinner party with a Cambodian family complete with cake, a birthday hat and fireworks. The food was phenomenal and never ending; Sometimes local kids came over to practice their English with us- it was a nice change from the incessant 'madam madam madam' I heard everywhere else I went.

We were in Cambodia for one week- a country whose people are as sweet as sunshine and are slowly trying to turn themselves around after the reign and terror of the Khmer Rouge.  To date, more than 50% of the population are under 18 and while I have done my best to speak with the local Cambodian crowd at bars or on the beach, it seems that the notion of family is completely upside down.  Most children don't have grandparents and while this will change as time goes by, it is important to remember that this country's definition of what we call a family is different beyond comprehension.

And then when we were eating dinner, watching the celebrations for a new moon and water, a massive group of Cambodians began to panic when the bridge they were standing on started to sway.  After we returned from dinner, which was one mile from the bridge, hundreds of people were dead.

Today the whole country stood still, paying respects to those who have passed.

We spent the day driving to Vietnam. It was a five hour journey from Cambodia, almost half of it was spent on a rather narrow path carved between two rain forests. Of course I had to go to the bathroom which just made for quite the calming road trip- at one point, a boy came running towards our car and slammed his hands on the hood in a successful effort to nab some money off the driver in order to let us pass- human road blocking at its finest.

When we drive from town to town, I see a few huts off the side of the road and I wonder if the people inside are related or grew up together- It looks like the simpler life, where children manage to amuse themselves for hours on end with a ball or some big banana leaves - their lack of side walks and gates makes waving hello the most natural and easiest thing to do.